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Everything posted by flames
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I completed this commission last weekend, it was no mean feat making it and moving it about. I can't claim any credit for the concept, as the client showed me a pic of something similar, and asked if I could make something similar from a tree felled on their property. See more here:
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-oiling fault cause: a tiny split in the rubber moulding, not possible to see (I'm pressing a screwdriver in the back to show it) I found it by pressurising the oil tank and seeing the resultant leak from that area. Fitted a new oiler assy. seems to work ok, but doesn't oil quite as much as I would expect, but enough I think.
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-the oiling mystery continues, I ordered the vent hose (which turned up today), it's identical to the one already in the saw. A nylon pipe with a spring pin in one end, no non-return valve. -and I don't think there is a rubber pipe missing from the pipe to the oiler slot, as I'm pretty sure this saw doesn't have that, wasn't there when I took it apart, and also isn't shown on the parts diagram. I'm still at a bit of a loss as to why this isn't working. Tomorrow I'll try it again but 'prime' the oiler 1st, and ensure the vent pipe is above the oil level. I might open up the 'filter' spring on the oil inlet to allow oil to flow to the pump more easily, but I shouldn't really need to do that as it must have worked before. Findings to follow.
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Thanks Eddy, thought something was missing. I assume the brass plug goes in the vent orifice under the oiler plate (bar side). Do you know if it would come with the vent hose, if I order a spare? Parts and Diagrams for Husqvarna 142 e (2006-12) Can't see on the spares diagram. Cheers.
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-friends Husky 142 with an oiling problem. Stripped the oil pump and cleaned it, (surprised how simple the pump is - bar with a flat machined on one end). checked that the tank vent wasn't blocked. But when I ran the saw it still wasn't oiling properly, on closer inspection oil was coming out of the tank vent. Has any one else seen this? Is something missing, like a non return valve, one's not shown on the spares diagram?
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Hi Delabogde, interesting that you just made a wine rack like that, Nicely done btw. As I've just been asked to make something similar, but bigger, from a 10" square beam. I've bought a 92mm diameter Dewalt self feed cutter to bore the holes, which have to be 8" deep. I know from using a 65mm one that with a hand drill it's enough to twist your damn arms off. So quite how I'm going drill these? -did you do it on a pillar drill, or have you just got guns bigger than mine? I'm thinking of rigging something up on the lathe, which should have the torque to drive one of these monster cutters - push with the tail stock... Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated, Any one got a big radial arm drill near Worcester?
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-think I've read that too, about that 026, the guy showed all the stages of the mod, pretty good write up. -should be quite easy to mod the 880 exhaust, mine's got the cast ally one, so the outlet is a pipe through a bolt on plate. No didn't go bang, developed idle problems... see http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/chainsaws/69005-ms880-cylinder-toast.html
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Thanks Spud, that was a quick reply! -yeah the golf piston in mine did 4+ years before expiring, what you get for £25 I guess. Ok so the coil will go upto 12k, think the book says to tune to 11k, I'll double check. Once I've got it running with confidence that I'm not going to cook it I'll post some exhaust temp readings. I've fitted a small probe near the exhaust port - will see what temp is runs at in a milling cut. I intend to open the exhaust pipe up a bit, not to give it more power, but just to let it breath a little easier, and stay cooler. I can compare temp readings to see if it's actually worth it. What do reckon re-pipe increase? Cheers.
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Hello peeps, I've just rebuilt my 880, I think the H screw is little lean, but can't richen anymore because of the carb limiter caps. Tached it at nearly 12k in cut, funny for a coil limited saw of 11k(?) I'll remove the cap and further adjust, but it is necessary to refit the limiter caps? -do they serve another purpose other than to prevent over adjustment? I don't think it's far off, but I'd like to air on the side of caution and run it a little rich, as I don't fancy shelling out for another pot & piston anytime soon. (sorry if this has been asked before, but my search didn't find much, except a brief mention on page 8 of this thread - another 880 rebuild - see that saw was fitted with an after market piston, not something I would now recommend)
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Some really great stuff being posted. Here's a recent one of mine. Oak burr 350dia x 250. Still needs a finish coat of oil, but I've run out, and the Mylands site appears to be down....
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A router with a guide frame can be good for very large boards.
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Steve, I've seen this before, you get it in Sycamore too. You should be able to bleach it, can't remember if it'll turn off, but if you only did them a few days ago, take a skim off and apply a fungicide, that should keep them nice and clean looking.
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Steve, I've seen this before, you get it in Sycamore too. You should be able to bleach it, can't remember if it'll turn off, but if you only did them a few days ago, take a skim off and apply a fungicide, that should keep them nice and clean looking.
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That looks great Steve, fingers crossed it behaves during drying.
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For reference, here are some pics of the piston. I don't know how much a Stihl piston would have been, but I think a genuine part wouldn't have failed like this £25.50 one from China. Looks like the materials are inferior, the top ring anti rotation pin appears to have worked it's way through the piston top, the lower one has started to embed as well and the ring can pass over it now. The ring edges have started to peen over. Also one of the gudgeon pin retaing clips has lost an end. Other 88 users: if you (or some else ) seizes your saw and you can salvage the barrel, maybe invest in a genuine stihl piston -called round a few places to see about replating, no one seems to do blind bores. I have one place to call tomorrow. (spoke to Langcourt - don't do chainsaw cylinders, and BDK engineering - very helpful but also don't do blind bores). Has any one had any luck going this route?
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yeah the ring has definately worn the exhaust port That's my gut reaction too spud, do you know how much the exhaust port can be opened up on an 88 cylinder? The rest of the pot is not too bad, scoring is minor - not deep and only below the port. Why is there not an after market pot for 88
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Started to look at my 880 tonight, as it was intermittently stalling during idle. I figured it was carb probs, but did a compression test 1st, got about 140psi, not too bad I thought. - popped the exhaust off, noticed a few minor score marks on the piston, saw that the rings looked a little odd (not seized though) and could see and feel a small hard bit embedded on top of the piston. After taking the cylinder off it was clear that the upper ring's anti rotation pin had come out and that was the thing embedded on the piston top. The top ring had rotated and worn the chrome away around the exhaust port. Amazingly the saw was still cutting really well, loads of power! This piston was an after market replacement (probably not a meteor though) that has done 4 years of hard work, so I'm not too devastated. But here's the big question - is the cylinder still usable?
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Boy you've been busy Steve, that's a lot of bowls, but I reckon I can beat that, I think I've got over 100 rough turned bowls HF etc. I really hope I can finish some over this Christmas period. Have you homes for all of them? This is one I put the finish coat on recently. Sweet Chestnut root, fantastic grain.
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They're some great hollow forms Terry, esp. the flat top one (thought this was a bowl thread ) Have you blackened the inside of the HF's with the cavities? I quite like HF with cavities as you can see the wall thickness, and the you don't have to keep clearing the chips out. -does mean that the finish need to be good though.
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Nice idea for a thread Steve, here's a few links to some of my stuff, and others, re bowl turning and methods. How is the bowl in your pics progressing? Any pics of the biggies you're working on? ratchet strap chucking http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/woodcraft-forum/17848-woodturning-24.html Endoscope & coring tool http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/woodcraft-forum/17848-woodturning-20.html Natrual edge Yew & Dying http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/woodcraft-forum/17848-woodturning-18.html Laser caliper http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/woodcraft-forum/17848-woodturning-15.html Natrual egde Maple http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/woodcraft-forum/17848-woodturning-11.html Cradle chuck & natural edge Ash http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/woodcraft-forum/17848-woodturning-8.html Yew ne - making of http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/woodcraft-forum/17848-woodturning-7.html
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that was the 1st lathe I ever owned, though mine was badged by Sealey - not great to be honest, but £40 is cheap, having said that gave mine away - some 10 years ago! That owl is awesome BTW!
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bobh, pretty tidy goblet, especially for you 1st go at one. I finished the Yew hemisphere off a few weeks back. I don't recommend Treatex hard wax oil for something like this, I really struggled to get a good finish, after re-applying it more times than I would have liked, I sanded it back and applied bees wax, which I then buffed. Hopefully the hard wax oil will have penetrated the wood to provide the sealing properties I was after. I think it is possible to get a good finish with this product, but I need to experiment more, it's water resistance is really good... but I don't have time for that at the moment. Lesson: don't experiment with a new finish on something over a foot in diameter!
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Very well put Steve! Abercarver, where abouts in the Midlands are you, there are a few of us around who I'm sure would be pleased to discuss all things turning with you. I'm near Worcester, you're welcome to call in if you passing. Also FYI, this is still available, not bad for starters IMO, (and easy to customise - I've two of my own lathes now...) http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/woodcraft-forum/61327-woodpecker-lathe.html -be interested to see how you get on.
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no takers? see below a few pics of what's included. I would really like not to have to flea bay it.
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So this thread hasn't had any posts for a while... Thought I'd share this - a Yew hemisphere (sort of) 320mm diameter, ratchet strap chucking This ended up with a wall thickness of about 7mm, after rough turning it too about 35mm wall, kiln dried it down to about 5% MC only moved a few mm on diameter, was tempted to leave it thick walled, but turned an under cut rim instead to give the impression, but make it light weight. Quite pleased so far, finish oil still to apply, thinking of using Treatex hard wax oil (any one used that before, mate tested it, with good results, very water resistant). This is almost has a perfect radius, although a slight surface undulation can be felt, due to sanding - if I make something like this again I'll make a concave sanding cup to match the rad. which should help prevent any unevenness. More pics to follow once finish is applied.
