Stereo
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Everything posted by Stereo
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Nope, it was rattling out in the wood. In the pic, just to the left of the pin there is a recessed hole and it fits quite snugly in there but I don't want to push it in! Goaty, it's a 345e.
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Everything seems to be working fine. Switch and choke are all as they should be.
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Out doing some logging today with my 345e and it started to rattle. This pin was loose in the casing. It appears to fit in the hole beside it. It's like a roll pin. Any ideas?
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True but trying to be an Alfa male on an Internet forum is only going to make you look like one thing. I think a lot of threads could be a lot less angry if people used terms like 'in my opinion'. This is, in my opinion, one of the best forums I have ever used. You get the odd spanner in all walks of life, that's just the way it is but they usually go away after a while.
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Thanks, will check them out. I agree, the Silverline socket sets and now spanners are good value. Don't get me wrong, I use their stuff all the time but you wouldn't want a Silverline cordless drill or other power tool. Or anything that needs really close tolerances.
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Report him to eBay. They will likely suspend his account or possibly ban him totally. We've been selling on eBay for nearly ten years and you get this kind of idiot sometimes. They go away in the end.
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We sell Draper and silverline and I have to say I disagree. Draper is not snap on or makita but in my opinion is far better than silverline. The level of returns we get bears this out as well. But it is generally more expensive. Its not the very best out there, I agree. Depends on the job you want to do I suppose. It's true they are not specialist in chainsaw stuff but I thought I would try them. I will try the meindl boots. I do wear meindl walking boots as I also have wide feet.
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I bought some husky size 10 boots online. Way too big so ebayed them. Got some draper size 10. Too big. I am a borderline 11. Bought size 9. Too big. Bought size 8. Can hardly get my feet into them but when I do they seem ok if a little tight. I am a draper dealer so this is not all madness. But what is it with chainsaw boots? If you get your foot in it, it's going to be massively too big. If its the right size, you can't get your foot in.
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Just a thought. The area has been a pheasant pen which may have had a significant effect on the soil. Elder seems to flourish at the mo.
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Thanks all. An evil hedge might be a good idea. What's the nastiest thorn hedge to plant?
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Thanks. Any good sources for plants?
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Our big old wood has a very old run down fence along the top and no fence down one side which joins a field which has just been bought by a 'community'. Apart from dancing around in the nud and swimming in the river, they have been seen carting logs out of our wood. We have a plan to introduce pigs into the wood for finishing so need a decent fence for this but we may also need to keep humans out. Or should we jst go for some razorbacks instead and let them all in?
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When's the best time of year to do this, I'm hearing October. Also, what sort of size saplings would be best? The area is rough and has brambles which will be cleared but will come back quickly so I need something that isn't going to be smothered. Also, what else would be good to plant with it? I'm looking for a future supply of construction / fencing timber and tempted to just do half an acre of SC.
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I have a couple I suppose. 'What's the worst that can happen?' or 'If a job's worth doing, somebody will be along to take care of it shortly.'
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How much can you fell without a license?
Stereo replied to mr_magicfingers's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
Unless you have to, I would work within the rules and go without the license. Over a few years, you can fell a hell of a lot of timber and still be within the law. Just takes a bit of planning. -
We really tried to be 50/50 with our first and it kind of worked. Now have 3 boys and I have done more than most blokes with all of them. You have to adapt to what's going on with work / money etc. If breastfeeding then it's difficult to be truly 50/50. I would say go for it. It's the best thing you will ever do and the hardest thing you will ever do. Don't ever think for a second that staying home with the baby is the easy route. They WILL test you to your limits. It's just bloody graft but it's bloody brilliant too. It got to the point for us that going to work was a day off.......
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I learned today that little birdies can only go about 24 hours without food so please keep it up. I also learned that ivy covered trees are massively important for these little critters. I guess there is a lot of shelter there and plenty of grubs and insects under the leaves. I spent pretty much the whole of last weekend on the sofa staring at tits.
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A farmer I know soaks his SW posts in an old bath full of old sump oil mixed with diesel. He swears by it but I'm not so sure it's that great environmentally. I think he leaves them in there a few weeks so it really gets in.
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One of my next plans is to plant seperate oak and SC coppices in order to provide a supply of timber for fencing / gates etc. over the next decades. I might get one harvest from the oak before I throw a seven but I think we are going the have to think more like we used to in the future. Unfortunately we have lost a couple generations of coppice management so there is little more than big trees and firewood to harvest on our farm. By the way, anyone know if a big old SC will coppice once felled? Or won't it take at that age. I've got some big ashes and sycs which have come back strongly after felling.
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I'm getting sick of replacing these stupid softwood posts you get these days. Last 5 years then snap clean off. Rubbish. I've got plenty of decent oaks in the wood and am thinking of felling one to mill into stakes. We've still got oak posts on the farm which grandad put in just after WW2. Whats the best way to approach this? Fell and mill it green or season first. One milled, do you use them straight off or should they be seasoned prior to use? I'm hoping the posts and the lack of having to replace them for many years will more than pay for a decent alaskan set up which I've been trying to justify for ages! I've also got some bigger SC's in there, maybe 3' dia. Would that be suitable / better?
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I once bought a BMW with an mot which turned out to be dodgy. I took it straight to the cop shop where I was 'detained' and interviewed for over 4 hours. I bought it at the auction and could prove it but got treated like a crim. Never again.
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We only use the bottom vent for starting or if it dies down too far. Opening the top vents keeps the glass clean and gives you more heat. If your wood is dry enough, try closing up as many vents as possible. This will give you the longest burn and the most heat output to the room I find. On ours it will blacken the glass unless the wood is bone dry.
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Martin is just up the road from me. I don't know him but his stuff is fascinating. I have also read that the nitrogen fixing has a wide range. I think that's why you often get lots of ash near alder.
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I would say something like 6'. Enough space but also encourage to go up and not out.
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My uncle bri is an Aussie. Emigrated at 18, now 75. He keeps telling me to watch out for them 'black fellas' and says poms are queers for letting Sheilas into pubs. OK. Right. Thanks for sharing.
