Dodge

Cheers guys Ive tried the bypass im but that didnt help, the light comes on on the solenoid,ive done a resistance check and one side is a bit flaky it seems when the solenoid heats up the its losing conection internaly. I've got a new one from hydrastar hydraulics but the one on the valve must be stuck as it wont budge at all I just need to be sure there wasnt some fixing I was missing

Hi Guys looking for a bit of advice the infeed solenoid has gone tits up its got a intermitternt fault I have got a replacement but im struggling to get the old one off !! Its a atos valve,the chipper is 2004. looking at the unit it looks like you just remove the plastic nut on the valve and the solenoid should pull off,well thats how it looks the bloody thing is solid, and I can still use it at the min and I have work lined up so im reluctant to try and force it off in case I bugger the valve. Im I missing something or is it just a case of it pulls off ? any advice please

we have a Bosch 40m but this gives you distance and hight and what we use now https://uk.hawkeoptics.com/laser-range-finder-pro-600.html £119 here https://www.clubhousegolf.co.uk/acatalog/Hawke-LRF-600-Laser-Golf-Rangefinder.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1ufC9-SZ3gIVCrDtCh0s9A7PEAQYASABEgJPGPD_BwE

I have been using a spark tester that has got a plastic body with a spring inside glows orange when a spark is present large croc clip on the body of the plug to a confirmed good earth and as a last resort the MK1 thumb and little finger to good earth only after a number of no glows on the spark tester :-)

Yes mate plastic spacer in place and new plug fitted at the first fail and I have tried it with another old but working plug with no result I tell you Its vodoo !!!!!!! but thanks for the advice mate Rog

This has got me pulling my hair out !! The story so far we have a spare ms181 as a last resort back up and a bit of snedding if Req saw ,the bloody thing is about 3 years old no more than 2hrs use if that, still on the original bar and chain that’s how much its done!!!! Same fuel as the other saws never old stuff , well its always been a a bit unpredictable on the starting front probably why its got so low hours on it anyway a couple of weeks ago I was cutting a few small logs down to size for splitting the saw had been running for Aprox 5 mins I stopped it and as per norm it wouldn’t start right I thought lets see what’s causing this normal tests Ahh no spark good new plug nothing ummm slapped the spark tester on nothing Ahhh the old coil problem disconnected the stop leads on the coil Nothing umm new coil then. Ordered a new Stihl £38 one, fitted and yaaa away we go 1 hour later the thing wont start normal tests and NO SPARK umm must be a dodgy coil I contacted the supplier and a new one sent out ( Top marks to LS Engineering by the way very nice people !! ) new one fitted ran for about a min then NO SPARK Arrrgggghh if I adjust it /move the coil it will work momentarily SOMETIMES , just to add I am rotating the fly wheel anti clockwise with a drill plug out , if I stop and then try again invariably there will be no spark Stop wires disconnected Resistance checks 1.7meg ohms through the coil to earth 1 ohm resistance through earth bolts to coil 2 Ohm resistance through earth bolts to cylinder head Well I’m sure it can’t be another dodgy coil, fly wheel (which is where I thought we were going with this) strongly magnetic and coil gap is set to the correct setting feeler gauge set 10 tho Tried various settings no difference !! So to summarise good earth, all connections abraded degreased and tight stop wires disconnected during test process New coil, strong magnetic attraction on the fly wheel correct air gap What else is there !!!!!!!

Mate don't beat yourself up over it, the only one in that gang who knew what was happening was you!!!! as far as they were know you are the hero who can make trees fall where you want :-)

Just to chuck a spanner in :-) if is a car Derived van you are only subject to normal car restrictions Corsa vans, Astras etc !!!!

Thanks Guys that gives me some confidence its not going to wilt and die if I brush past it with the loppers!!! thanks for the advice once again Rog

Hi guys, just after a bit of advice we have been asked to reduce (height and width) an established Magnolia tree that has been left to its own devices for a number of years. The customer is only wanting it reduced now as there is a danger of limbs failing in the wind, the canopy is fairly vigorous on multi stems of an average 4-5 inch diameter to a height of 20-25 feet She wants it down to about 12 feet, so there is some protection from the wind by a close by hedge my problems are 1, have never reduced a Magnolia tree and 2, I have heard they are susceptible to die back , this I need to avoid as the tree is of great sentimental value to the customer My thoughts are a reduction over a number of years rather than straight in, so as not to stress the tree to much in one go. But as I said I have no experience to draw on as I have never reduced one before !! Any advice would be welcome at this stage !!! Cheers guys

Thanks for the replys guys sorted now very much appreciated :-)

Top Man Wonky, thank you very much :-)

Hi Guys can anyone point me in the direction of a online / download copy of a service/workshop manual for a BG86 blower just need to know what the torque settings are for the bolts holding the cylinder to the crankcase thanks Rog

We have had a few like this One elderly fella was atempting to cut a number of large overhanging branches off after his friend who had cut the easy stuff off for firewood left him to it 70 plus balancing on some steps and the fence hacking away with a floorboard saw ! we had to interveen, we just hate to see people struggle thats why we arnt rich I suppose !!!!

This is Finn the moaner, boy can he go on when he wants !!!