adam4838

We accept chip and timber in any size. Tip can be accessed 24/7 as remote access and camera monitoring available. Site is all hard standing with chip and timber piles next to each other. Good space to unhitch chippers and turn. Run times from various locations shown below. Great access from A34 / A555 network. Call or WhatsApp Adam Lawson on 07980 241917 for more details. Please make contact first if you haven’t used us before.

Hello guys. My Dad is in construction and has a possible job at WD6 4PS in Borehamwood. Needs a price from someone down there. Bit of garden clearance, shrubs out and stump grind. Let me know asap if anyone wants to price it for him please call Martin on 07773333144. Cheers, Adam

I currently have a 1999 110 tipper, and am thinking its gonna need a new chassis soon. Planning on putting my tipper body on a new 130 chassis to enable it to carry the weight better, as my body has a large rear overhang which puts my rear axle weight over before I have reached the 3500kg GVW. I know it will fit in terms of mounting points, but trying to work out what the gap will be at the front for a tool locker. Basically want to reduce rear overhang as much as poss to enable me to fill it up legally and still tow a hefty trailer without the rear axle being over weight.

Anybody help me out with some dimensions of a 130 single cab tipper? I need the length in mm from front to back of the tipper body and subframe please. Thanks in advance!!

You wont beat a 110 HD with a Hilux. Only issue with a 110 HD 3500kg with a high sided box on the back is that you cant reach the full 3500kg capacity before you have chip spilling out the top and the back axle is 200kg over weight! believe me I've tried and been on a weighbridge. I know you say the money is an issue, but a 130 is the amswer as they spread the weight better between both axles. I'll be doing a chassis swap eventually and putting my 110 body and cab onto a 130 chassis to make the best of the payload available. If you can stretch a bit go for the 130, from experience.

I am looking for an extra pair of hands for odd days and on larger jobs. Must be freelance on day rate. CS 30 required, and some experience or college tuition on the basics also a must. Would be more than happy if you have just left college or dont have years and years of experience. Someone who listens and is keen, well turned out and polite to customers is vital just as valuable to me as years on the job. Own PPE req. PM me with details and a bit about yourself. May become regular for the right person. Many thanks, Adam

I am looking to employ a freelance climber for large take downs and reductions. Must be good with rigging and have own kit. I am looking initially just for a few jobs that I have got in the pipeline, but may become more regular for the right person. PM me with details of relevant experience and NPTCs etc and a bit about yourself, and the day rate. Many thanks, Adam

Hi Guys, I have got a Rayco grinder with a 25hp Command Pro pertrol engine on it. Keeps blowing the head gasket on the cylinder which is leaning down when the machine is in use and is generally getting a bit tired. Does anybody know of any small diesel engines that would fit with a few mods to the mountings? Im guessing as long as the RPM is similar and shaft can be lined up it should be relatively simple. Any advice would be great! Ad

A mog!!!!!! There's a thought!! I know what you mean about the farmers and such like having it all sewn up. The rates seem to be very cheap considering the machinery. As for what tractor, no idea yet. Dont know that much about them tbh, and havent got a fortune to spend. Any suggestions?

Hi guys. Great thread, I've learnt loads reading through it. My opinion (for what its worth as a relative newbie,) is that you do need to charge a realistic rate to make a living. When I set up on my own after working for others for a few years I did go in a bit too low, which I realise was a mistake with the benefit of hindsight. It is important to set your stall out as you mean to go on, and build up a good reputation, not just a cheap one. However, I based my initial prices on what I fealt I could achieve in a day. Small chipper, small tipper and basic gear meant we were nowhere near as efficiant as a slick tooled up and experienced 2 man team. Now we are getting there, I sometimes cringe at what I used to charge. Finally though, I know I am getting it right as recent customers have shared with me other quotes from other reputable firms and we are very close. It takes time to get your head round exactly what your ability within the day is worth. Like many other posts in this thread, its not as simple as just a day rate. Some are more competative at smaller jobs, and some at bigger jobs. Within a mile of me there is one of the largest companies in the North West. I compete on some domestic jobs, and it can vary quite a bit on the prices. He's more tooled up to do bigger jobs than I am, yet my overheads are massively lower, so I may come up cheaper on a smaller job, without intentionally undercutting. I think the main thing is that we are all different and there will always be variations. Just a question, the £500 - £600 for a 2 man team. Is this a company charging out 2 people with kit, or is it the boss and a groundie? This makes a difference as if it is a company charging out 2 men, then the boss has to cover the wages of 2 men and his own on top for running the business. Just curious to know. Adam

Hi guys, after a bit of advice. I am considering buying a tractor for the bigger jobs, to run a splitter, big trailer etc. I do some work for a couple of schools and a Town Council, and grass mowing has been mentioned on a few occasions. Has anyone done any verge / field mowing with their tractors as a sideline? Whats the going rate for seasonal contract work? Is it worth taking on? To be honest, I cant really justify buying a tractor unless it was going to be used more than just on the larger tree jobs. Any experiences or thoughts appreciated. Cheers, Adam

Yes, and a bb phone. I'd jump at it if it were available, and I'm sure I'm not alone. Let me know if you get anywhere and you want a guinea pig!

Yeh I thought that. Is it something you could do? Must be a few on here using a playbook.

Hi Steve, I, like a few others no doubt use a blackberry. I don't know much about android or appear, but Google it and found this. May be worth a look? Sorry in advance of its crap and iv got the wrong end of the stick! https://bdsc.webapps.blackberry.com/android/bpaa/ Adam

Hi Guys, Long lost relative has died and house and garden need clearing to sell. My parents are sorting it all out and the garden needs clearing asap. Bit far for me to justify chugging down there with Land Rover and chipper and finding local tip etc etc. I havent seen it but I believe it is mostly shrubs, hedge trimming and a lot of bramble in the back. Brushcutter and mower needed also. Post code is B31 4. If anyone fancies putting a quote inthe direction of my parents let me know. Cheers, Adam

Not meaning to derail the thread a bit, but I have just read through the thread and i am in exactly the same position. I currently run an old single roller TW125 and for what it cost me a year or 2 ago it has been a great machine. However, I was tempted by the 13-23 diesel option. Paying £1.30 per litre on unleaded or 75p per litre on red derve seems to swing it for me if both machines are probably very similar. Anyone got any thoughts on the fuel cost factor? Adam

Thats great advice chaps thanks a lot. Jon, Got your messge, any pics and an idea of price?

I know what you mean about the tractor! Its not mine, and I dont know a lot about tractors! I am supplying the wood and the splitter and we are using our yard owner's tractor. It has 2 hydraulic couplings at the rear and a front loader. It says on the spec sheet for the tractor 13.2 lpm at 2800 psi. Do you think it would be up to running a decent splitter?

Hi Guys, I am looking to purchase my first proper splitter. Will be running off a Ferguson 35 tractor hydraulics. Not sure what to look for or anything to avoid? Any tips or help would be great! Thanks in advance, Adam

I own a 110 HD 3500kg tipper. Yes, they are lighter to begin with so on paper the payload is higher than a 3500kg 130. But, the length of the body and the position of the load being carried means that I guarantee you will be over weight on the rear axle before you reach your 3500kg gross weight with a full load of chip. A tool locker at the front does not help with this either. If I was doing it all again I would have a 130, More chance of staying legal.

It looks exactly like my TW125PH 2001 model. Same Kohler engine, chassis, hydraulics, switches. Only thing different is the hopper. Mine is more like the large fold down ones on the newer Timberwolfs. Id say its one of them. Single roller feed, but cracking little machine.

From what you described in your first post it has to be a Land Rover 110. Td5 all the way. Loads of grunt, reliable, sounds nice and easily modified for a bit more power. Tows 3.5t, diff lock, high/low. Simple. Nothing else comes close.

Here's one I did yesterday. Not the best, but I don't think it's too bad.