Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

Mr Fir

Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    39

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Mr Fir

  1. Mr Fir

    THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    70cc. Powerful yet light saw for arborist work. Very good condition, low milage despite age - has been in storage since end 2015. Bit of fuel and firing as before. Can give an invoice for tax purposes. Would prefer meet up (Edinburgh), postage would be £20. Product info at gaywaysltd, new is £1000+

    £675

    edinburgh

  2. Mr Fir
    Seeing your pic of the narrow rope bite there and comparing to my blue tongue (bought 2014, used with ZZ2), that looks different. I would suggest contacting your supplier, see what they make of it - may be a newer, upgraded version?
  3. Mr Fir
    Thanks Paddy, really helpful even when not the answer I was hoping for I'll get on the case and then take it to somebody to check and sign off. For others in the same boat check out; Contact Us – Tree Research Education and Environmental Service Ltd TREESLIMITED.CO.UK
  4. Mr Fir
    Hello, It has been a while (4 years) my ropes and harness have been in storage while away around the world. Now back and keen to climb again...but can I use this equipment? I'm looking for a clause of sorts for stored, older kit. I know the history and use of my newer kit (2 years use max) and wouldn't hesitate to use them. However I believe my insurance is tied up with LOLER regs and that wouldn't normally cover them, being 6 years old. Also looking for a reminder/ corrections on my very cobweb memory; ropes and harness 3 years, krabs 5 years. Rigging kit longer? Any thoughts? Anybody around Edinburgh or the central belt up to the task? Cheers, Fir
  5. Mr Fir
    Used stiki grip gloves in the past, on pfanner fine grip ones now. Tend to use them more in cold conditions or on narrow ropes, easier on the tendons
  6. Mr Fir
    How do you find piano wire for poking between cover strands esp. on exit? Rigidity of the welding wire seems handy for that
  7. Mr Fir
    Oh well went with online guides and vids and happy with results. Few pics... First splice on practice piece (top) of XTC fire then on main line. Broke a few wire fids, tight final bury as half expected. Cut up the Yale Blue Tongue splice into a few bits to show how cover is in core, for those who haven't done it. Nice sharp chisel did the trick. First double braid, 24 strand on the same rope. My mate says he'll take a few to uni when he goes back and break them and tell me what force it took, hope it holds till then... Thanks to contributors on the splicing forum, lots learned from ya'll
  8. Mr Fir
    Got it sorted. Made up a fid from 1mm welding wire, didn't put a twist in it so slid straight through. Think the previous one broke because of the amount of hammer action. Very sore hands and a couple of splices later
  9. Mr Fir
    Cheers, I looked at them earlier...will order one and make do with another welding wire from the smiddy for tomorrow. To look over instructions for 24 strand poison ivy, hope I can use nods fid for it
  10. Mr Fir
    What fid is the best for 16 strand? Today I have broken 6x 0.9mm clarke welding wire and a 1.5mm from the local smiddy (it survived one splice). It is year old xtc fire, understand it can be tricky but a solid wire fid should do it no?! Whipping the practice one now...
  11. Mr Fir
    Is there anyone around Inverness who'd be up for teaching a newbie? I could learn from guides etc but think it'd be better to learn from another climber. I had Jamie in Edinburgh do a couple NE hi vee eyes for me a few years ago, excellent splices thank you. A bit far away now though... I'm needing to splice a couple of ropes soon, been looking over the forums for kit list. XTC fire seems a good one to start on, tail end would be easier I guess? Also have a new Yale blue tongue which I rolled a top handle over near my anchor point not long ago Any guides around for 24 strand kern mantle? Thanks in advance...
  12. Mr Fir
    Thanks for the offer Ty, i'll get in touch when I know i'm heading over then. First arborist I worked with was an englishman near Guemene-sur-Scorff. Where abouts are you? Plenty work on?
  13. Mr Fir
    I'm looking to move to Angers, Maine et Loire, next year and find employment - not interested in running a business again! My partner is French so I have learned the language over several years (though still need to learn more). I've a couple years experience since an ND at college, suite of NPTCs and extras. So i'm wondering what are the essentials (i'll speak to la mairie too)? Training certs carry over or likely required to do theirs? Know of any decent national companies or ones to avoid? Sounds a bit tricky but i'm sure the rewards will be worth it
  14. Mr Fir
    Yes, since being a student a few years ago. Magazine is decent and events (though far between in Scotland) have been good too. AGM was in Dundee last year, this years is at Dawyck botanic gardens at the end of the month. Have been to Mattheck, bs3998, keith sacres planting and a couple of others in Scotland since being a member
  15. Mr Fir
    The Arb Association have taken over publishing of that series. Find and buy at Research for Amenity Trees Series
  16. Mr Fir
    Thanks for the replies, might be able to sleep now! Thankfully don't need to lift the sections myself Anyone know where to market the wood? Any turners forums? Not in my interest financially but would like to see it used
  17. Mr Fir
    What's the wood like for cutting? Got a big dead one (80cm diameter) to cut up for a telehandler. Just wondering if a bigger saw is in order - ms260 18" bar... Will keep in mind about the cuts, will let the client know it could be worth selling
  18. Mr Fir
    I'll second 'Body language of trees'. Matthecks series (with Stupsi the bear) of simple diagrams and theories are good too - pricey so get down the library! [ame]http://www.amazon.co.uk/Principles-Assessment-Management-Research-Amenity/dp/0117533556/ref=sr_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1321907094&sr=1-3[/ame] is good too. Review of many theories, essential for reference
  19. Mr Fir
    Good advice Gollum and Alec. I highly rate RHS Growing Fruit (£5.20 on Amazon), it has most if not all what you said and some clear diagrams of the pruning techniques. Also has soft fruits and planting, site planning etc. I'm just getting into it but will be doing restoration pruning on some old orchard trees in Newburgh, Fife with some local gardeners this winter so all this knowledge will be well used
  20. Mr Fir
    Basic setup and some more complex systems at http://www.treebuzz.com/pdf/speedline_variations_1.pdf http://www.treebuzz.com/pdf/speedline_variations2.pdf We used a pretty basic setup. Rig normally, tighten speedline with 4:1 redirected on a pole. Pull up the piece and let it run. Saved tons of shifting on a steep slope but took a while to get setup and tweak the system. Nice vid Pete, never seen that before. Faster than normal rigging and less forces on your kit?
  21. Mr Fir
    Has someone left? Thought they were cutting down on staff...
  22. Mr Fir
    Distribution maps of fungi records are available through links from Species list - British Fungi NBN maps worked well and you can get an interactive map of records too. These maps show that Ganoderma pfeifferi and G. resinacium haven't been recorded anywhere near as far north as I am. Forest Research at Roslin, Edinburgh have no records of these species either. It's still quite possible the fruiting bodies are from G. australe though. How many years between Picus scans would give decent data to see if the decay is progressive?
  23. Mr Fir
    It's been raining. I'll have to check whether the species you suggest are present far north, will let you know. 1. Yes. Would you try this yourself? 2. That's what i thought. What magnification would you need? Be worth sending off a sample if not possible myself? 3. I didn't realise that. Is there someone else who has solid in vivo results published? Quite interesting revisiting an old project with a different angle. Goes to show that you need a solid ID and all the knowledge behind the pathogen.
  24. Mr Fir
    I've got some better pictures if you want to have a look hama. A few notes on the FBs - the upper surface is matt, also a flame did nothing to it (as suggested by Lonsdale). The location fits G. applanatum and the fruiting body description. I believe it's pretty difficult to tell Ganoderma species apart, especially G. applanatum and G. adspersum so yes, we used the Picus data showing an intact wall 4 and referenced Shwarze to confirm. If on the other hand you or anyone else is able to positively identify these fruiting bodies as G. pfeifferi please do. Sorry to drag this on in a Picus thread...
  25. Mr Fir
    It's to do with the trees growth rate. Faster grown = less resistance to decay generally. Some trees like oak have heartwood where the cells are 'dead', blocked up with tanin and other chemicals. Species like Poplar won't invest energy in wall 4 or even reaction zones, it tries to outgrow the decay by keeping the soundwood/ decayed wood ratio high...and usually fails! Also depends on the pathogen and species interaction. Some good reading @ http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/shigo/index.html Trees: their natural history by Peter Thomas is on the money for tree anantomy.

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

Articles

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

  I accept