daltontrees

Orientation is everything! Everything... That's not true. Use dwarf stock or it will go horribly wrong.

The exact wording of the Act is - (i) for the purposes of preserving public health or public or air safety; (j) for the purpose of preventing the spread of disease ; or (k) for the purposes of preventing serious damage to livestock. foodstuffs for livestock. crops. vegetables. fruit. growing timber or fisheries. if it is done under and in accordance with the terms of a licence granted by the appropriate authority. SNH has no autuhority to grant licenses for preserving private safety. A license could be refused if public safety was at stake but could ba assured instead by excluding the public from the area around a dangerous tree. This is the situation I found myself in last year. SNH would not grant a license because the public and private occupiers of a hotel car park could be excluded from the danger area until the bird went away.

I see there's 2 threads at least running on this subject. I have commented in the other one.

Blurry Ganoderma, too blurry to know which species

The last point is a good one. Is it not logical that people buying wood in small quantities are less likely to store it for long enough for it to increase its humidity, undermining the whole point of forcing people to take 2m3 deliveries? And forcing kiln drying, isn't that going to use up a lot of fossil fuels? The rationale for the 2m3 delivery rule is highly highly suspect to my reading. The consultation document says it is to stop occasional users buying wet bags from the garage. If they're only occasional users, their contribution to pollution is surely minimal. But that is the only rationale given for forcing big deliveries. In my experience customers take smaller deliveries because they don't have room to store large quantities or can only get volumes of wood to their back door if it's in carryable bags. I'm not going to respond to the consultation, though, for 2 reasons. Firstly it only applies to England, and secondly I think the wet wood fascists at big brother HQ have already made their minds up. But I do hope one of you lot down south get it on the record that wood rehydrates in storage and that larger deliveries are therefore a bad idea. Unless the govt is suggesting that all woodburning households store 2m3 in their living rooms?

Try Fever Tree Vachellia xanthophloea syn Acacia x.

I've never seen one. Have you got a rugged case for it? You might be quicker making a 'harness' for it. Can't be that hard.

Longhorn beetle?

Looks like Ganoderma resinaceum... or early stages of Fistulina hepatica.

Not so in Scotland, licenses are only for aviation safety and public health. Because that's all that the WCA allows SNH to license.

Yerwhot? He agreed to pruning, which I believe was done in his preferred winter, and was concerned only that the neighbour had done it again but in summer, and was asking if he should further reduce " to try and keep the issue from escalating". Really quite the opposite of using the tree to annoy the neighbour. I have experienced FB Arbtalk briefly and have no intention of going there again. Rude, ignorant, foul, aggressive, unhelpful, with ocasional outbreaks of tree related subject matter. Almost devoid of constructive debate and learning.

Could help you with that as long as it's just for study purposes. PM me.

Funny, after reading the whole thread I never got that impression about OP's motives at all. What a lot to read into someone's desire to avoid the unnecessary loss or damage of a tree... Standard Arbtalk thread here, someone asks a question and no-one answers it, off they go on various interesting entertaining or caustic tangents. So what was the original question? " if they continue will this cause permanent damage to my tree and should the canopy be reduced this winter to try and keep the issue from escalating ? " Someone's already said, Copper Beech inner leaves are sensitive. Hard pruning can result in scorch. But I can't see an established tree being killed. The idea of permanent damage is vague, yes the cutting back to the boundary will permanently affect the branch structure at the boundary but it probably won't kill the tree. And as has also been said, the neighbour doesn't need permission to cut to the boundary, so it's a moot question. If OP gets it that this isn't really an issue, he can let the boundary be cut like a hedge forever. Then the need to reduce the canopy in winter isn't really a need. Personally I'd give the tree a break this winter. From what I can see of the pictures and situation, I'd let it go and maybe next summer of the tree has flushed fully I would consider a voluntary crown reduction (particularly height) and resign myself to maintaining the tree at about its current height and spread for the foreseeable. Small and regular cuts to a Beech are sutainable in the long term, big drastic cuts disfigure, decay and shift the hormone distribution in ways that it is hard to predict by the inexperienced. I don't see the need to infer passive-aggressive motives. It's a question of physiology and common law. The OP appears a reasonable person just trying to understand a novel situation. Nothing wrong with asking.

Read it again. I'm saying that felling a protected tree because it's dangerous doesn not exempt prosecution under the Wildlife and Countryside Act. That's the law, and that was Scottish Natural Heritage's position. No-one's saying it makes sense or that it's fair and reasonable, but that IS the law. We couldn't move the pigeon, but we could move the people. It was fortunate tha the owner was able to reschedule some renovation of the hotel dining area and use another room for the guests meantime, so no-one was at risk. I put a Beaufort Scale threshold in place anad not even the workies were allowed in on windy days.

Ddin't know that. They're both family Rosaceae, so it seems logical.

https://www.pippintrees.co.uk/trees/whitebeam see the last line of this link. Also soem of the rare WHitebeams on UK (the welsh, arran, bristol etc.) are being kept ging by grafting onto Rowan. The Leys Whitebeam is apparently down to a dozen or so but the genetic material is also beign preserved by grafting onto aucuparia rootstock and grown in a botanics. The suckering leaves of Whitebeam I have seen in Edinburgh, and they looked like Swedish Whitebeam leaves, or even more dissected, like Bastard Service. Only much bigger. It's in their blood.

Dawn Redwood, the needles are in opposite pairs. For Taxodium they are alternate. Als T.d needles are pointed like Seventh Devil's nails, but these are rounded'

Up here in a local Council area I have had a client tell me he had to apply in a CA, and because there was no Arb report the COuncil won't validate. Wrong upon wrong. I'm about the educate them. But one needs to be careful. The Council might think they can threaten to TPO a notified tree if the correct form of notification doesn't come in. I believe that would be intra vires, if somewhat unethical. But if Council's are doing it deliberately (this particular Council I don't think is that smart) rather than ignorantly, they're probably bluffing. I always advise clients that this is a slight risk. Last year I called bluff with one Council; they were bluffing.

If Red Maple means Norway Maple Schwedllerii or Crimson King, they're b*****s for girdlign roots, I've seen a few leaners caused by it. In the long term the survivirs seem to overcome it, don't know if the roots fuse witht eh stem eventually. The root in the 3rd pic is going to cut off vascular flows above and below, probably not fatal as MAples are diffue porous, but ofr the proper developentof the tree I'd take the chance and cut it. Sharp chisel and hammer would be better than a saw, don't worry if you can't quite get all the way through.

Just to clarify, there was no candlelight or questions popped ?

Those yellow marks in the pictures are yellow 'no 'parking' lines, that's the only dimensions I can give. Rough, sandpapery feel to leaves, like glabra.

I found this one (actually 2 beside each other in Stirling this week. What is it? It's an Elm for sure, but which one.

If it's an Elm it doens't look like one of the british ones, but is a close match to Siberian U. pumila. I have a confusing Elm ID pic coming up...

Backfill the periphery with firmed soil, mulch again and leave. You might expect some important roots further down that would be knackered by a tree spade (which is not a cheap business at that size). I'd be tempted to carefully examine root structure and see if any selective girdling roots above 25mm could be severed cleanly.

The current conditions are unusual but not unprecedented. Have these trees lived through similar dry conditions in the last few decades? Yes. Did they survive? Well, obviously yes. Will they do it again? Almost certainly. They might even flush again this year if we get some decent rain. Is thre any risk in waiting till next spring?