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Everything posted by Stephen Blair
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I seem to always be on a hill and sliding around especially when facing downhill digging or pulling timber in up, might get a set, it’s the thought of changing them over. I threw my first track on the Bobcat yesterday, had it 2 years, forgot what a ball ache it can be to get back on, the grease nipple is a pita to get to being tucked into the side too, then I didn’t have any sockets, or grease gun! 😂luckily strong nephew wrestled it on.
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What jobs will you put steels on for?.
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Tractor/timber trailer needed in Angus PH12 8RB
Stephen Blair replied to Stephen Blair's topic in General chat
Yes, to forward timber as we fell and extract out the wood to the track. -
Looking for a tractor and timber trailer for a days work moving timber from woodland to hard standing, approx 2 miles on the main road each way. Thanks
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How do you become a forestry timber cutter.
Stephen Blair replied to Roebus's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
Find out who your local tree guys are and contact them. Tell us your location and make this thread your CV, sell yourself. -
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Sure was, other side of that fence is a conservatory, hot tub and slippy decking. That’s where we had to pass all the brash over to chip!
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I used to use a half brick, the 3 holes ones, smash in half then just tie my rope through the remaining hole! I thought I was genius and had that bad boy for 2 years in the climbing bag! Then I worked with another climber for the first time and I grabbed his rope because he couldn’t get it into the tree , tied in the mighty half brick and launched her easy 40ft up an ash, she bounced about a bit, then fed his rope down lovely! He had fit as it was a brand new rope! My reply was just use the other end! I loved that brick!
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I had the Nissula felling head. Hardwood like Beech and Holly I’d say 5” max, softwood and saplings like Lime and Ash it would do the 6”. Conifer limbs that were say 8” x 4” it would cut easily. I’ve heard good reports about JAK shears, Jas P Wilson is the dealer. I’ve never used the TMK, I think they can punch above their weight. I like the grapple with removable blade as acts as a timber grab too.
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It’s hydraulic pressure that’s key. 2.7 tonner will do 5-6” hardwood and at a push 8” softwood. With exceptions. Do you want to just shear, do you want a felling head with removable blade, full fixed rotator with blade? Use the search on here, check out the Arb Digger thread.
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When it’s on it’s gone Mate!
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Timber hitch at basal anchor
Stephen Blair replied to Carteeni's topic in SRT (Single Rope Technique)
I don’t climb SRT, my subby climber has changed onto it recently and he asked me to base tie his rope the other day. It wasn’t till after he was down I remembered an instructor at a demo day showing us the friction hitch and spare rope. If there is more to the system then I’d be keen to see so I can use it. I’ve used this method on DRT for years without the friction hitch. I’d install a rope and pulley with my climbing line on it from the ground if it made life easier. If the crown allowed it just throw bag in and set up, it would save a lot of climbing to start. -
Timber hitch at basal anchor
Stephen Blair replied to Carteeni's topic in SRT (Single Rope Technique)
Apologies Joe, I thought this thread was about base anchors. My mistake. -
Timber hitch at basal anchor
Stephen Blair replied to Carteeni's topic in SRT (Single Rope Technique)
Theres a huge difference between undoing 1 twist lock carabiner or cutting a soft link with your silky and then let gravity do the rest to get you out a tree quickly, this can be done easily within 1 minute of an injury, if the climber passes out after that I’d much rather a groundie was in control with both feet on the ground compared to waiting for a climber to dig out his climbing kit, get up the tree and do a dangle rescue. If attaching a friction hitch and having a longer rope is a faff then good luck to you.