woodrascal

Yes

Looks like Midtherm Matt Black HT-S Midtherm

Slatted, and as mentioned above with good air flow helped by a windy situation. We've got seven stores and the two best ones for speed of drying are south facing with a strong, prevailing westerly wind.

I've been told that the Burleys have such a high firebox temp (along with a number of other stoves) that the surface of the inner glass panel starts to soften. The tertiary air jets which help create the Burley 'fireball' stir up some fly-ash which then sticks to the glass surface. Once the temp drops in the stove, the glass re-solidifies, trapping some of the fly-ash in the glass and causes this 'hazing'. Some people have blocked up the jets which are pointed towards the glass and this seems to have helped the problem. Incidentally, I've modified our Clearview Vision 500 by fitting an adjustable tertiary air feed at the rear of the stove. On 'full throttle' this feed had the effect of making the firebox like a blast furnace, which like the Burleys, hazed up the glass. By backing off the tertiary I now get a much cleaner burn and no hazing.

Our oldest is a 2002 Charnwood Country 4 - still in mint condition

Don't most stove manufacturers advise against burning PET Coke? (it voids the warranty)

A properly designed, clean burning woodstove used correctly with decent, dry fuel will burn off most of the volatiles produced by the combustion of wood in the stoves firebox - including any 'oils' mentioned in the book. This is true for either hard or softwood. If you are burning any wood be it hard or soft and you are getting excessive deposits in the flueway there is something wrong with your fuel, your stove or the way you are using it. We've got several stoves and some years ago I tried an experiment by burning exclusively dry softwood in one of them and a mixture of dry oak, ash and beech in another. I monitored the build up of deposits in both flueways . There was NO real difference between the two - perhaps a bit more fine grey flyash in the 'softwood' flue but no build up of tar or excessive soot.

No you don't if you burn dry wood in a good stove with a sensible amount of air...

Hunter are apparently developing it... Hunter Stoves

We've got six stoves in the house - only ever had five lit at one time though. When five are going it is quite a job to feed them all (three have quite small fireboxes). Over the Christmas period we usually had four burning for long periods. By the way, one of the stoves is in our bedroom - fabulous on really bitterly cold winter nights, lovely...

95% bone dry Ash, Oak and Hawthorn with a bit of Larch as kindling.

I'm finding this 'hazing' of the glass a problem in my Vision 500. I have modified the stove to burn cleaner by replacing the steel baffle with vermiculite board and adding an adjustable pre-heated tertiary air supply. It burns so much cleaner but the fly ash is melting into the glass due to the very high firebox temperatures.

Who is your supplier Sophia?

If it's kept off the ground, exposed to the sun and has a decent flow of air through it, those three types of wood should last for many years. If it's lying on the ground, in a sheltered, shaded spot with rain pouring on it for most of the time, it won't last very long at all.

There's lots of teams doing them on Ebay. I buy the big sheets (I've got six stoves...) but you can get any size you need. Here's a link to one supplier : Vermiculite Fireboard