maljack

Many thanks Ty, i am considering the pays de la loire region .The whole idea of moving to france is a bit scary in the cold light of day, however the more i look into it the more the appeal.I know the obvious speaking french will be a challenge and if i decide to go i will practise and learn.The big question is are the french bothered about stumps?.I am finding that people have less money to remove stumps in uk recently and is stumpgrinding in france any different?

Thinking of moving to france and maybe taking my stumpgrinders but have no idea how practical this might be ? Would there be a market for my 66 horsepower and walk behind grinders in france ? I would welcome any feedback or sugestions

I used to use 1100 series on my previous 60 horsepower carlton because I thought the machine was suited to them.I found when grinding big poplars they dragged and the pulpy wood took the torque out of the engine.After experimenting I eventually used the 900 series and realised that greenteeth were correct in suggesting 900,series.After five years of using greenteeth the 900,s allow a faster cut with less weight and drag.It is a mistake in my opinion to use the 1100s.Incidentally you must always keep them sharp. I know 1100,s look great but I would not use them.Speak to Peter at Plant and Quarry for good teeth and pockets at a dam good price.Loved my old deutz, experimenting with the best setup on the razor system on the new machine.Hope You find your ideal setup.

Once you have used a big machine such as a 7015 you would not want to go back to using a machine ten times less efficient without yawning.If you are earning your living just grinding, you need to get in and get on to another job.Sixty six horsepower with a carlton razor set up just blows away any thing like a vermeer 352.Thats a pretty good reason enough for anyone who uses big grinders in my opinion.

It will not take much to starve the engine of oil especially at full revs on a slope and bingo no more engine.Carlton warn users not to use on slopes greater than 25 degrees.Common sense and using the chip pile whilst grinding to level out is the way to go on a slope situation.

I have been running a 7015 four wheeled kubota carlton from new for ten months and prior to that the deutz engine.I found the tracked version heavy on fuel and unless you are grindining on rubbish tip sites go for the wheels.Been grinding full time for past twelve years and Im glad I chose to use carltons. Get the kubota 7015-it is more powerful than the deutz and uses the same size cutter as the 8018.Incidentally dont ever think about using a 7015 on a slope, wheeled or tracked.

I always say to tree surgeons that they will make more money concentrating on what they do best. I grind stumps 100% and have been for the past twelve years and now in my opnion is probably not the best time to get into it. Carlton 66 horsepower Kubota and 13 horsepower covers all my work in East Anglia hello

Used them ever since they came out and the system has been brilliant.

Had mine for about two years now and no problems.

I use the paddle type attachment for clearing up debri after stumpgrinding and its great . After experimenting I find it works better to have it paddle the debri towards you in order to heap it up.The scary bit is the cost about £330 I recall.The brush is a lot cheaper but does not do the same job. Another thing is the weight of the paddle is heavy when connected but it needs to be to shift the debri.I used to hate clearing up with rakes and stuff and it would take ages especially after grinding mega stumps but its strange I almost enjoy it now.

Experience will eventually be your best guide. I almost always visit the site to avoid any nightmare,world of pain situations unless I know its a small walk behind job.After just grinding stumps for ten years or so I can still get the price wrong especially when the tree has grown over a metal stake. Points to help you price a job-Poplars take the torque out of any stumpgrinder-make sure you keep changing teeth.Cherry-hard plus at least two big roots to chase-never blow over.Beech-although shallow rooted take longer than you think.Each type of tree has grinding characteristics-Oak looks auwsome but is okay -Eucalptus easy etc. I always Dig around stumps -soil/stones will dull teeth quickly unless its the big turbo Carlton.Heavy clay can clog in the cutter guard and slow the wheel-chalk is fine-sand is good but abrasive on the cutters over time etc. Hope some of these points will help help you when you are looking at pricing jobs.

I know how frustrating a problem it can be on a stumpgrinder.You start to think its something technical and seriously complex as I did trying to start a machine after it cut out on a customers driveway(loose wire in this case)and not being able to start my big carlton to get it off the trailer-both situations madly mental and wasting time and money not to mention looking like a loser in front of your customers.In these situations you cannot think logically and in your head its a mega big thing thats gone wrong. But in my experience it is a very simple solution.I have a mate(clever engineer ) who came over and in less than a couple of minutes sorted it out .You need to find this sort of chap in your local area and make sure you buy him several pints down the pub.

Been using greenteeth since they came over here on 13,30 and 60 horsepower machines.Would not dream of going back to having to undo the pockets and re-torqe every time I want a sharp edge. Dont get the 500 series, use 700 for your 13 horsepower machine -it will be no problem. I have used many types of teeth including sandvik and despite how much everyone raves about sandvik greenteeth in my opinion are equal and quicker to change