softbankhawks
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Everything posted by softbankhawks
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Hello Old Mill...what's your niggle?
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I remember your love for the fly Steve. Doesn't it's stretchyness gripe a little? It's 'feel' is way up there. I was gonna get some more too for my OAR. I feel retro but it's a classic for sure.
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I've been trying 3 Donaghys ropes recently and wondered how popular they are in the UK. Cougar Blue double braid climbing, Spark 16 strand climbing and the name escapes me now but a nylon mixed rigging line. The CB is shockingly static for a db climbing line. Perhaps because its designed in australasia for those huge euc's? I like it! For any splicers out there the Spark is soooooooo easy to splice.....as easy as hollow braid.....I'm serious. I hav'nt put the rigging line through any pace yet but it's coated and the nylon mix makes it sound good on paper for dynamic loading (unlike the CB). Anybody with experience on either 3?
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Check new england website for splicing instructions. Heavy duty kernmantle splice...
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It is NOT thinner than tachyon. Dragonfly is a unique arborist rope in that it has a core dependent strength with a hard wearing jacket. It is stretchy. It really does retain its shape in hardware. Feels more like a 13mm but with a smooth jacket. The splice is bulky. Depends on how how you climb it'll suit or not. It'll run wondrous in a spider jack but the splice may piss you off a little due to its bulk.
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Better splice some large dead eye's then.
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from yr grit in the avatar pic maybe you can!
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As well as being sprung open the grigri has been tested to slip at 600kg on a static 10mm rope. What does this mean, hell I dont know (!) but it means something for sure. A grigri was not designed with any industrial application in mind. Its a sport rock climbing device and at a push I will use one in a recreational climbing system. There are many tree tools available, I'd encourage people to us em. RADS is slow and in-efficient. It creates a wonderful MA quickly and has certain applications but for straight ascent.....it sucks. There are so many systems that you can set from the ground. If speed aint your thing then try out the 'super system' from Tree Climbers International which gives a 5:1 MA.....designed with Nigella Lawson in mind.
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I have the oar with the articulating spine, it slack tends as well as you would want and works perfectly in a rads. If people want pictures or clearer explanations please dont hesitate to ask.
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I'm happy with the performance on The Fly, I was looking forward to using it on todays job but a typhoon zooming over the south of Japan has postponed it. The OAR is very easy to install and once installed completely secures the rope inside it. There is no way that it could be shaken off the rope. When body weight is applied the OAR misaligns causing the steel bars to lift and forcing a slight bend in the rope. The rollers are positioned on the other side of the rope to the steel bars. Changing the roller size in theory means that smaller or larger rope diameter can be used. As Gordon explained, adding more ARMS or RACKS will aid in adding friction too. The way that the bottom bar acts to release enough hold and cause descent is akin to the feeling of a hitch. This is really unique in a mechanical tool. Using two bars is less intuitive. Gordon, when the 3/4 is ready I'll happily buy it!
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Full size three rack Oar: on all ropes in the following list the OAR ascends very smoothly. Descent on : Tachyon - smooth, slips occasionaly 11mm power static - does not hold New England hivee - does not hold Poison Ivy - tight, needs two arms to release The Fly - smooth, slips very occasionaly I think the compact kernmantle construction of The Fly helps in regards slippage. Any rope that flattens seems to suffer this with the OAR. The Fly on paper is 11mm but in reality is much larger. Notice how the 11mm power static did not hold at all. I'd like to play with adding more arms and compare the 3/4 size. It compares to the Unicender in many regards. When the correct rope is chosen a climber has a very smooth and intuitive descent function.
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samson ropes, whats the difference?
softbankhawks replied to James Atkinson's topic in Rigging and roping
This is true but when snatching we need to account for heat fatique in the half hitch on dead eye sling and attachment to lump and a larger rope WILL outperform a smaller one. I dont have any documentation though -
Ha! that is a tease. I'm interested in the oar, I mean, I want to buy one, please pm me with details. The anodized dogbone wrench looks AMAZING, I also want one of those.
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Hurrah for Eccentric Brits!
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From Norm Hall on Treebuzz, a retreivable rigging friction saver...http://db.tt/uTjExmBh N I C E !
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I agree drew. You can make great slings with it. For natural crotchin too it's hard to beat. I found a picture the other day....now where is it....
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Hello, The video explains measurements in fid lengths. There are two good reasons to avoid using this method. 1. If you dont have a fid you cant do it. 2. If you do have a fid you will find the tighter covered climbing and hitch cords much more difficult than if you use a wire fid. Rope splicing tools - Treeworker.co.uk Brion Toss has a great formula for double braid class I which you can find in 'Working Rope-basic braided splices'. This book is a great resource. Brion Toss Yacht Riggers, Sailboat Rigging::Books
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Ai, there is alot out there, gone are the days of one rope for all jobs! The sirius is good rope, a class 1 double braid splice. XTC is good too!
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Hello, I'd look for some 16 strand for climbing rope, honey's can splice that for you and these guys in essex sell polyester 3 strand. 3 Strand Polyester Standard - Items - One Stop Chandlery - The chandlery for the dinghy enthusiast Polyester is harder wearing and less stretchy. If you enjoy splicing then look at hollow braid rope. You can get a polyester version called tenex, it's easier than 3 strand to splice! There are so many ropes available, it gets confusing!
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...and has elliminated what? Why so vague? Are you under contract by the mafia?
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Misinterpret or not it's the most important consideration. Did anybody test a lockjack on a single line in a factor one and two yet?
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Did you see Matt Cornell's harness? If not then do a search on google, it's interesting. I only use side d's for pole work and I decided to cut them off my treeflex as I was using it for recreational climbing and treeboating. It struck me that the adjustable bridge webbing runs beneath the waist webbing and maybe this was why the treeflex loosened off a fair bit, I was wrong, it still loosens off, but I ended up with a length of 10mm op instead. I also cut off the short webbing that attached the leg loops to the bridge shackles. Everything attaches to the ring on the leg now. It's not gonna change the world but it's comfy enough and light to boot and the adjustable bridge is great for frog walking. http://db.tt/GgWTNLNw
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man, I loved that adjustable bridge. This one adjusts just enough to keep the hitch climber tight for ascending.
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http://db.tt/5Vplt4h5 Kong's 'duck' doesn't, for me anyway, work on new england safety blue/hi-vee or samson arbormaster and it gives me the impression that all 16 strand may not work. It slips until you engage the cam manually, so useless as a back up. It workes well on tachyon. The shackle keeps the duck from swinging too close to the hitch climber. I use an ascension and footloop for ease of climbing, not for life support, likewise with the inimitable pantin. What do you think?
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Ian, I'm intrigued by the pulley idea. Is it smooth? It must depend on tether length? I'll try it out today! Your comment about toothed cams and not clipping into them....has there been a toothed device designed for tree work? These days I set my line through a cambium saver so it's back to isolating branches again, which I enjoy plus I was shown a cool 'always carry two throw cubes' trick and its easy peasy to set. This means that my anchor points have lost their tenuousness but I'll not clip into the ascension all the same. I'll post a picture of my current set-up.
