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First big Owl carve


Gardenmac
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Russ

There was a thread on here sometime ago, I think it's title was 'eye burning tool' take a look at that. I got mine from Shaun 'Norfolkngood' is his name on here, I'm sure he will be more than happy to sell you a pair. I use 25mm and 12 mm for smaller carvings. :thumbup1:

 

Thanks Ian, will check him out. Been using 25mm marbles in smaller owl versions so a 25mm burning bit would be a great addition to the tool box.

This is the biggest log I've carved and one thing that is on the shopping list is a saw with a longer bar. Biggest bar I have is on the 211 and it's 16" which has been great for blocking out on smaller pieces but certainly harder work on this much bigger log.

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Good first attempt mate. Several good suggestions already posted. My usual rule is that there are very few (if any) straight lines in nature. an additional one is that most birds are aerodynamically shaped and that dictates head shape etc. practice is all that we need, just endless practice

 

Many thanks, I've been re working the shape to make it look more like an owl and less like a totem.:001_smile:

Hope to practice more as the winter pulls in and day job starts to drop off.

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Thanks Ian, will check him out. Been using 25mm marbles in smaller owl versions so a 25mm burning bit would be a great addition to the tool box.

This is the biggest log I've carved and one thing that is on the shopping list is a saw with a longer bar. Biggest bar I have is on the 211 and it's 16" which has been great for blocking out on smaller pieces but certainly harder work on this much bigger log.

 

Bigger is not always better, block out with you bigger saw/bar and then your much better off with a shorter carving bar. All carvers are different in their approach, also when you can afford it, buy s number of different length bars and saws to support the bar you have.

In my opinion an ms 180 with a 12 ins Sugi bar and 1/4 pitch chain is an excellent middle of the road carving combination.

 

But more importantly keep practising, you will see improvement yourself as you keep carving.

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I find i use a 10inch dime-tip for most of my detail work and a 14inch tsumara R7 (ish) for very fine or hard-to-reach details. Blocking out i prefer my 550xp with a stock 15 inch bar. i know many use 18inch bars but how often do you cut that big? if i need to make a big cut i use a bigger saw but most of my blocking out dosnt need that much depth and the simple reality is.... longer bars = loss of potential cutting power

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I find i use a 10inch dime-tip for most of my detail work and a 14inch tsumara R7 (ish) for very fine or hard-to-reach details. Blocking out i prefer my 550xp with a stock 15 inch bar. i know many use 18inch bars but how often do you cut that big? if i need to make a big cut i use a bigger saw but most of my blocking out dosnt need that much depth and the simple reality is.... longer bars = loss of potential cutting power

 

Many thanks, I'm about to order a couple of carving bars and was looking at a bigger saw, cant decide between Echo CS501SX or the Husky550xp. I notice that Skylands Arb have both available but the Husky comes with a spare bar and two chains. I normally use Stihl but recently invested in an Echo 360 from RobD and its a great machine. I hope to be carving bigger timber so its time to invest in a machine with a bit more power.

Edited by Gardenmac
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Bigger is not always better, block out with you bigger saw/bar and then your much better off with a shorter carving bar. All carvers are different in their approach, also when you can afford it, buy s number of different length bars and saws to support the bar you have.

In my opinion an ms 180 with a 12 ins Sugi bar and 1/4 pitch chain is an excellent middle of the road carving combination.

 

But more importantly keep practising, you will see improvement yourself as you keep carving.

 

Many thanks, bars on order today.

Edited by Gardenmac
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