Hayter 56 Drive Problems

[Sleeches]

Afternoon

 

I have a Hayter 56 which is giving me some problems.

 

Firstly, when trying to remove the blade by jamming it with a block of wood, the nut turns but so does the clutch plate (and therefore the engine). Is there any way of pinning the crankshaft so I can get the blade off?

 

Secondly, the drive belts were replaced at the back end of last year and the drive is now very weak - there is some drive but it doesn't pull itself along at all as the roller stalls easily. Having looked at the drive unit, the rear belt (idler pulley to transmission) is completely slack, and is only tightened up with the ground speed controller. Strangely it is slack on the "hare" setting and tight on the "tortoise" setting. When I engage the clutch I can feel the transmission engaging but there as the belt is slack I'm assuming that's the reason for the lack of drive.

 

It may well be that I'm a complete numpty and just need to take it to the local repair shop for a going over, but was just wondering if there were any obvious fixes anyone with experience can suggest.

 

Many thanks

[IVECOKID]

Firstly Bin the Variable speed pulley , they do or did a kit to convert to single speed , I payed £80 going back some Time .

Secondly the transmission boxes can become lazy with time more so on the big 56 mowers .

Thirdly you can lock of the engine via the Spark plug hole but I don't like doin this has normally a good crack on the spanner should free the blade bolt off.

 

Ste

[Richard 1234]

Also are you turning the bolt the right way? It's probably left hand thread?

[GardenKit]

The blade bolt is a normal RH thread, but its quite normal to spin as described. Use an impact gun if you have one, but if not, clamp some vide-grips to the edge of the disc.

Insert a block of wood where it can catch, then turn the bolt anticlockwise until the blade is stopped by the wood, and keep turning until the vise grips contact the blade, Then the bolt will undo.

 

The belts on the Harriers wear very quickly, we change them on every service that we do, so just because they were replaced last year does not mean they are OK. Replace them again now. They may still be slack though, because its a rubbish design.

 

The clutch within the gearbox is also pretty rubbish and its not at all unusual to need a new gearbox every couple of years, especially if the cable has not been kept correctly adjusted.

 

To check if its the gearbox or belts at fault you really need to get in a position where you can get line of sight on the gearbox pulley, whilst the engine is running and the clutch lever is engaged. The mower needs to be against as solid object and someone else needs to be holding the the clutch in and applying a little downwards force to 'load the roller' until it stops rotating. At this point, if the gearbox pulley is still spinning then the belts are OK and the clutch is not, or needs adjusting. But if the pulley stops spinning then the belts are too slack, or worn to drive it.

BUT, the procedure outlined above puts the viewer in a VERY DANGEROUS position close to a spinning blade, so of course THIS SHOULD NEVER BE DONE!

[IVECOKID]

 

The belts on the Harriers wear very quickly, we change them on every service that we do, so just because they were replaced last year does not mean they are OK. Replace them again now. They may still be slack though, because its a rubbish design.QUOTE]

 

 

I actually am convinced that the Moron in the design department of Hayter was either going through a Mid life crisis or was smoking a joint at the time of designing the variable speed cock up.What a complete load of bollocks it is .

I have worked with variable pulleys all my life on our Farm on Combine Harvesters etc and still I cant get my head round Hayters design .

 

 

Ste

[GardenKit]

We have just done a 56 today, with new underbody panels, new belts and new freewheels in the roller. Even the new belts are slack, but surprisingly it now drives well, but for how long?

 

I gave up selling them a long time ago, as they should simply be much better then they are.

[Ian C]

We have just done a 56 today, with new underbody panels, new belts and new freewheels in the roller. Even the new belts are slack, but surprisingly it now drives well, but for how long?

 

I gave up selling them a long time ago, as they should simply be much better then they are.

 

Are the pro versions any better and is the 48 of simular design?

[IVECOKID]

The Silver Pro 48 is acceptable,single speed and fixed roller , I like it but pathetically weak front wheels .

 

 

Ste

[GardenKit]

The Silver Pro 48 is acceptable,single speed and fixed roller , I like it but pathetically weak front wheels .

 

 

Ste

As said, the single speed and non split roller of the Pro version overcome some of the reliability issues, but they still have the flimsy underbody panels which are allergic to even small stones, and the fact that they simply do not collect anything other than short dry grass.

 

The 'wedge' shape, pre 2005 models were brilliant in comparison.

[Sleeches]

Thanks guys - i'll have a crack at jamming the disc and getting the blade off, otherwise its down to the repair show where they have an impact gun.

 

Thanks for the comments on the transmission itself - again I'll try and pull it apart at the weekend and see if I can isolate the problem. Shame it's such a cack design, and that the transmission is such a git to work on, but its put in a good shift so far (albeit only civilian use not pro).

 

I may have to get out the old Toro 20655 which despite being a pain to change heights and no stripes has been bulletproof.

 

Cheers