Too Late To Move Fruit Trees??

[Logged On]

We want (if possible), to take two fruit trees with us when we move farms.

 

One's a plum and the other's a cherry. Not sure of the varieties though, if that makes a difference.

 

They're not huge either, just badly maintained (should say not at all more like here) over the last 30+ years that I know of.

 

The plum used to be espalier grown up a south facing wall, but grew to a size, it 'peeled away' donkeys years ago and was then never put back.

 

So, if I prune 'heavily' now, could I still be able to move them??

 

OK, I we may lose a lot of fruiting branches for now until it grows new stuff, but we would really like to take them with us....

[gooseflight]

Not too late and worth a try. And really, what have you got to lose? Fruit trees are pretty tolerant, look at how many windthrown trees keep fruiting.

 

Normally to move a tree of size you would trench around the stem to sever the roots at around 0.5m radius and done well in advance of moving. Doesn't sound like you have that option. Just take plenty of soil.

 

If the trees are of sentimental value you could take some hardwood cuttings at the same time; you're pruning anyway. If the strike they'll be on their own roots but hey, you'll have your trees.

 

That said, common varieties of fruit trees are cheap to buy.

[Goaty]

You don't mention size by height or girth. I would be reluctant to go through the trouble of shifting and giving tlc post replant on anything over 5 years planted. The older they are the less juvenile vigour to reestablish themselves. I would get some grafts done. It's the perfect time of year for that. Fresh vigourous Young plants that will outgrow and yield better than a replant.

[treesrus]

i agree with goaty, trees of that age (30yrs+), will be difficult to transplant with questionable success - even if you manage to keep them alive, will take years to resettle. makes more sense to start fresh.

[agg221]

I would chance moving them - not much to lose. I have moved some reasonably old (up to about 50yr) fruit trees in the past and most make it.

 

I wouldn't prune them first at this time of year as it is inviting silverleaf. A fairly small plum would be on either Pixy (up to 8ft) or St Julien A (up to 15ft) and cherry is probably on Colt (up to around 15ft). These have fairly compact root systems so as long as you can get a good rootball, wrap it well to stop it drying and get it straight in a hole, backfill with good topsoil and it should be OK.

 

It will need good staking, and not straight through the rootball. Either a diagonal stake or a set of three in a triangle, with battens holding them together at the top and a rubber tie round the trunk from each. I use old bike inner tubes from the cycle shop.

 

I would then mulch it down well to keep it moist and keep the weeds away, water regularly when needed for the first year and take off any poorly placed/overly dense growth in late March/early April when they are starting to grow and there is less risk of silverleaf.

 

Don't be surprised if the whole tree develops a silvery look. This is false silverleaf and is a sign of shock. If the tree gets away this will not persist.

 

You could try grafting from them as well, but it is tricky to find rootstocks on a small scale. I wouldn't go with cuttings as they are very unlikely to take and you will have no control over the ultimate tree size, which will probably be a lot larger (30-40ft).

 

If you know the varieties, and they don't make it, you could always replant next year. Keepers Keepers Nursery UK | Fruit trees for sale | Buy Online | Mail order has the best selection I know of and tends to have end of season sales if you are less worried about which variety you want (their sale has just started).

 

Alec

[Logged On]

The tree's only about 8inches in diameter at the widest point, and all the other growth is just made up of wild / out of control branches.

 

Maybe you're all right then....

 

Just start a fresh, because it's no longer being trained up the wall and it's peeled away from it, it's got more dog leg shaped branches in it, it looks just not worth it....

[agg221]

The tree's only about 8inches in diameter at the widest point, and all the other growth is just made up of wild / out of control branches.

 

Maybe you're all right then....

 

Just start a fresh, because it's no longer being trained up the wall and it's peeled away from it, it's got more dog leg shaped branches in it, it looks just not worth it....

 

If you put up a photo I can offer an opinion, but I generally find trees can be got back into shape. A lot depends on whether you want it for outright crop or for character - if the former, start again, if the latter, character takes a long time to grow.

 

Alec

[gooseflight]

You could try grafting from them as well, but it is tricky to find rootstocks on a small scale.

www.blackmoor.co.uk do rootstocks in small quantities.

[Logged On]

Not got a photo, but does this street view image help...???

 

http://maps.googleapis.com/maps/api/streetview?size=640x640&pano=cd05ioBoVszn0qG0s_z6gw&heading=-10.753990013980638&fov=44.99999911222804&pitch=-0.8932522080318024&sensor=false

 

Try and make / work out the trees up along the building wall that has the red doors from the traffic cone, you may get the idea....

[Peasgood]

Ebay is good for rootstocks in small numbers.