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Straining wire fencing


madbopper
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Using ht wire strains of up to a mile can be achieved easily on straight pulls on level ground.strainer spacing should be dictated not by distance but by ground conditions ie if a curve many tuning posts will be needed and if undulating you will need either hold down posts or hold up posts neat placement of posts at a set distance is not good practice

 

This is why the FC developed spring steel wire fencing, it has a much higher elastic limit so can be more highly stressed and hence much longer spans between posts. You do need different fixings and decent wire cutters (Felco c7s for me) and have to be very careful about the bend radii as well as avoiding damaging the wire with the strainers.

 

In principle it is similar to the way rails are now tensioned in the railway, the "spring" takes up any expansion due to rise in temperature. With standard wire you cannot get enough stretch into the span before the elastic limit is reached.

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As a fencer , I would say their is a bit of merit in both .

 

100 meters is fine to strain from one end hard stapling, and tieing off, wire pulls better if it's straight look ng runs I would pull up to 200 mars from one end if straight run.

 

I usually for any longer runs pull from middle to equal.the torque,

 

If working gripples then tie them off, ht wire shouldn't need 're- tensioned ms may do, but if it is for otters then there won t be the same pressure as livestock,

 

Just beware anyone can call themselves a fenced, their is no national accreditation for agri equine fencing, it's experience and quality of work that gains me work.

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If using HT wire straining distance isn't much of a worry, 100m is no problem anyhow. Hard stapling is a sin, both ends should be tied of properly, Iv never found any difference in straining from one end or the middle unless there awkward twisty runs. I often pull from one end and tie off, therefore no joins/crimps/gripples or hard stapling!

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