Questionable advice.

[stuartc44]

At work another employee has been told something which I believe is wrong regarding climbing equipment. Really can't see how it could be right.

 

I asked why a rope grab wasn't being used on a rope side strop, not wire, and was told it couldn't be used without a soft link as you cannot connect metal to metal. I understand it could be a problem if there is no give in the set up, twisting / side loads etc.

 

Surely if this was true krabs to d rings, lock jacks zigzags etc. would also be a problem.

 

I won't mention names, but i was told it came from a qualified trainer.

[10 Bears]

Now, I'm no advanced climber as several on here are (I still use a Blake's when I need to climb...), however, I understood the use of a soft link was to enable the quick cutting of the link in a rescue situation to get the casualty off their system and on to yours or similar.

 

As this is on a rope side strop, I don't see that you would need a soft link in that scenario as you would just cut through the strop.

 

There are several rope grabs available for sale which recommend direct linkage to krabs - although not all arb specific.

 

I'm with you Stuart - I can't understand what he's talking about.

[TIMON]

I think I understand what you are asking...... My understanding of why there is a need for a soft link or cut away component on a wire core flip line set up is that; in the event of a rescue a casualty can be cut out of the system to be transferred onto another system. If there is no cut away point the climber is captive in his (wire core) strop because at each end of the flip line there are metal "eyes" that a rope grab or a pulley can't pass.

As far as I know (if I understand your question correctly) I don't see a problem with having a rope grab on a soft strop, in fact Dragon make a lanyard with exactly that set up.

It is important to make sure that the rope grab you are using is compatible with the diameter of rope.

Metal connectors can be connected to other metal components eg crabs to side D's and swivels etc.. They should be checked for compatibility etc..

There are others on here with more extensive knowledge than me but that's my two penny's worth. Hope it is helpful.

[Ricbob]

Ive heard this BS before, and whenever i hear it now i just ask why? and no instructor has given me a reasonable answer yet. none of them know why its just what they have been told or heard before. Metal to metal is common place and ever best practise in other industries so i feel fine about it.

Yes with rescue etc its handy to have a cut away but to have a soft link between every metal to metal junction is madness.

With twisting forces and cross loading i think this is a no issue, im willing to bet a krab is stronger under toque than a sling? and krabs are designed with a healthy cross load breaking force, more than you could generate under normal work and certainly more than your spine can take.

[Steve Bullman]

Re metal in metal. Where possible you should use aluminium with aluminium, steel with steel, but not mix the 2. Other than that there's nothing wrong with your set up at all in my opinion. The soft link is for rescue and is entirely redundant if you're using a rope lanyard

[Ian C]

........

[Mesterh]

Re metal in metal. Where possible you should use aluminium with aluminium, steel with steel, but not mix the 2. Other than that there's nothing wrong with your set up at all in my opinion. The soft link is for rescue and is entirely redundant if you're using a rope lanyard

 

That sounds good to me.

 

It could be that they are saying steel attachment on rope grab to aluminium carabiner rather than just metal to metal?

 

Otherwise how would a steel chain be acceptable?

[Steve Bullman]

This is simply a case of someone misunderstanding what they have been told and then going off preaching their own version as gospel

[Mesterh]

If that's true then I need to seriously reconsider using the fat bloke down the pub as my sole source of all information on everything!

[Marc Lewis]

This is simply a case of someone misunderstanding what they have been told and then going off preaching their own version as gospel

 

Exactly this