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Blocked main jet 200t


Maxnaggle
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Haha right you are. Well all the parts arrived today, so I set about building the saw back up. Did both the bearings on the bottom end while I was at at, and put the oil seals in while the cases were spilt, which was much easier..

 

Got it all back together, and it still ran like crap! Managed to find another non piston pump zama carb kicking about so put that on, and hey presto! Admittedly the carb that was on there was a copy.

 

So the saw has more or less had a complete rebuild.. I've learnt a lot as well!

Thanks for the input :) will take it out tomorrow and see how it goes

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Haha right you are. Well all the parts arrived today, so I set about building the saw back up. Did both the bearings on the bottom end while I was at at, and put the oil seals in while the cases were spilt, which was much easier..

 

Got it all back together, and it still ran like crap! Managed to find another non piston pump zama carb kicking about so put that on, and hey presto! Admittedly the carb that was on there was a copy.

 

So the saw has more or less had a complete rebuild.. I've learnt a lot as well!

Thanks for the input :) will take it out tomorrow and see how it goes

 

Now you tell us:001_rolleyes: glad it is sorted now:thumbup: Wasn't that difficult was it?

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The problem with the very informative threads on the forum is that everyone gets carried away into thinking they have serious problems and have to do their crank bearings and seals, when in fact they seldom give trouble, and problems are often very simple things, usually only carburation.

 

Very slight air leaks are acceptable, during a test the vacuum should be tested at no more than 0.5 bar and rise to no less than 0.3 bar in 20 seconds. The pressure test should be done at no more than 0.5bar and need only hold constant for 20 seconds.

 

Using higher pressure or vac may induce leakage that looks severe but is in fact within limits.

 

When you think of it a 32cc engine at WOT is moving over 400 litres of air every minute. A very small leak makes no difference.

 

Keep it simple guys.

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Having a 200t that you know works would be great in this instance, just a process of elimination swapping parts on the poorly saw until it works! Haha I made the assumption that the copy carb would be ok to use, going on the quality of the existing zama unit...

 

And I was also dead set that the old carb was knackered, so when I found a split in the impulse line I didn't think about putting it back on (after it still ran like crap)

 

Thanks for the input everyone, I can confirm that the saw runs well! (Thank God)

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