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Posted
Cool hope it works out for you :thumbup:

 

Somebody serviced an old tractor on the drive bit of oil :001_rolleyes: ive been told if i dont sort it soon i will be seeping on it :lol:

Posted
Looks are a personal preference so I think we can agree to disagree on that one.

As said angular gravel is better as it locks together to some extent.

Mud, silt and any pieces chipped off the gravel will build up over time and it will eventually become clogged. I have seen several drives that look like 20mm to dust with a mix of mud thrown in for good measure.

Brick pavoirs are the way to go if there will be any need to take up for trench or stains.

My main point is value of the property. A good drive will probably increase property value by more than the cost to do it, and as a bonus you get the benefits. This of course depends whether Simon wants to invest more money in his house or keep it for his business.

Its another choice to consider

 

I have a limestone chipping driveway . Which has a 10ft twin wheel trailer running over it every day not to mention my truck / chipper and stumpy . I spread normal salt or rock salt over it to keep the weeds down and it works for me . Although my rear garden patio is Block paved and looks a tad better :thumbup1: I would struggle to remove oil stains from my block paving and doubt it would take the abuse I give my gravel . Just saying what Ive found from my experience :001_smile:

Posted

Hi

 

I think you'll curse the day you skimped on the gravel mat but if you like driving and walking in deep gravel, then crack on. Here are pictures of a garden I landscaped with COREgravel mats which are 8'x4' and terram backed.

 

The mat is 2" deep and needs 85kg of gravel per sq m - a gravel drive without the mat needs to be about 4" deep to avoid base material breaking through so twice the cost for gravel.

 

The total area matted was 120 square metres and 2 of us prepared the sub base, blinded it with concrete or sharp sand, laid the mats and filled it with gravel in one 8 hour day.

 

4 years on, the driveway looks as good as the day it was laid and the customer had 2 X5's :)

 

Cheers, Tony

59766dbd758a1_SLSDriveDoneExc.jpg.e2fccf9d2b47bdf8b7b53905f291d79b.jpg

59766dbd726e2_SLSGravelPour.JPG.20f8023221ab19d05b4be4f343123c28.JPG

Posted

:thumbup:

Hi

 

I think you'll curse the day you skimped on the gravel mat but if you like driving and walking in deep gravel, then crack on. Here are pictures of a garden I landscaped with COREgravel mats which are 8'x4' and terram backed.

 

The mat is 2" deep and needs 85kg of gravel per sq m - a gravel drive without the mat needs to be about 4" deep to avoid base material breaking through so twice the cost for gravel.

 

The total area matted was 120 square metres and 2 of us prepared the sub base, blinded it with concrete or sharp sand, laid the mats and filled it with gravel in one 8 hour day.

 

4 years on, the driveway looks as good as the day it was laid and the customer had 2 X5's :)

 

Cheers, Tony

Posted
I have a limestone chipping driveway . Which has a 10ft twin wheel trailer running over it every day not to mention my truck / chipper and stumpy . I spread normal salt or rock salt over it to keep the weeds down and it works for me . Although my rear garden patio is Block paved and looks a tad better :thumbup1: I would struggle to remove oil stains from my block paving and doubt it would take the abuse I give my gravel . Just saying what Ive found from my experience :001_smile:

 

I've had lorries on mine. Oil stains you could lift a brick and replace with spare. My first house had a gravel drive and my experience with that is probably why I dislike them.

Posted

I used to deliver gravel. The membrane is an expensive modern idea, I wouldn't use it.

Just a 2 inch layer of gravel on firm hardcore. It will need topping up from time to time.

Harrow or take it on occasion before heavy rain it will wash up nice and clean.

I used to tie tailgate with rope and trail it out for customers. I got so good at it.it seldom needed a raking to level it on a straight long run. Also if you have a grass strip up the middle make gravel go further and wedge a block of wood in middle of tailgate.

Posted
I used to deliver gravel. The membrane is an expensive modern idea, I wouldn't use it.

Just a 2 inch layer of gravel on firm hardcore. It will need topping up from time to time.

Harrow or take it on occasion before heavy rain it will wash up nice and clean.

I used to tie tailgate with rope and trail it out for customers. I got so good at it.it seldom needed a raking to level it on a straight long run. Also if you have a grass strip up the middle make gravel go further and wedge a block of wood in middle of tailgate.

 

A geotextile membrane such as Teram is not particularly expensive and serves to separate the gravel from whatever you have below. The only reason you have to top up is because without the separating membrane, the gravel migrates down into the hardcore which in turn migrates up - regardless of compaction.

After 5 years I have not had to top up mine at all.

An added benefit of the membrane is it limits weed roots to the extent that when they inevitably grow, they are very quick and easy to pull out - takes me about 5 minutes every other month to keep on top of weeds

I have used the plastic grids as I am on a slope, so no option not to and it has not moved at all.

I do drag a bit of mud onto mine from time to time, but the plan is to lift the grid, sweep/rake the gravel off the membrane then get rid of the mud and relay. The area is broken up by brick retainers following the contours and edging which makes for managable areas and the grid is 40mm deep and only filled to that depth so not a huge amount to shift when I do need to which might be after another 5 years ... perhaps, but probably longer.

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