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Posted

I can't understand it myself, got a 2001 ms340 very well used and never been greased in its life with no problems apart from usual repairs. How have they gone from saws like that to ones that have parts that last weeks

Posted
Thanks for the input lads, i might be robbing Peter to pay Paul so. I'm fairly anal about greasing up the needle bearings every second Day or so. I use Oregon red liquid grease, it's great stuff.

 

That likely is overdoing it, but it needs to be done now and then.

 

It is easy on many Husky saws, as you can grease from the end of the crank. :001_smile:

Posted

Am I rite in thinking we're on about the clutch bearing melting only if so we had the same problem at work with our 231 which would melt the bearings for a pastime and whine like a hungry mutt when idling, I sorted it by not tightening the chain as much as we're told to on our courses, through years of experience with Stihl saw's I know for a fact they don't like a tight chain !...👍

 

Sorry if I'm on the wrong track !...

Posted
Am I rite in thinking we're on about the clutch bearing melting only if so we had the same problem at work with our 231 which would melt the bearings for a pastime and whine like a hungry mutt when idling, I sorted it by not tightening the chain as much as we're told to on our courses, through years of experience with Stihl saw's I know for a fact they don't like a tight chain !...👍

 

 

 

Sorry if I'm on the wrong track !...

 

 

Pretty much, it's something to do with a fault at Stihl's manufacturing depot when drilling/centring the clutch drums for the mid-range saws, that and the crappy plastic cages.

It's easily remedied with Oregon metal bearings and clutch drums.

Posted (edited)
Am I rite in thinking we're on about the clutch bearing melting only if so we had the same problem at work with our 231 which would melt the bearings for a pastime and whine like a hungry mutt when idling, I sorted it by not tightening the chain as much as we're told to on our courses, through years of experience with Stihl saw's I know for a fact they don't like a tight chain !...��

 

Sorry if I'm on the wrong track !...

 

Too tight chains can cause a lot of damage, related to the crank and bearings.

 

No sag, no drag is a good rule - it should be easy to move the chain by hand (no drag). :wink:

Edited by SawTroll
Posted
I have a 261 (2013) with a rim sprocket and a 241 (2014) with a spur sprocket. Given all the trouble lads have had with their 261's which seem to be attributed to rim sprockets, would it make sense to head off any future problems by swapping the drive sprockets around? What do ye think lads?

 

As per many threads on here the bearing problem on a MS261 relates to a slightly oval hole on the MS261 rim sprocket. This causes premature bearing failure and if the user doesnt stop in time and continues cutting, the crank gets scored and needs to be changed. It is not known how many sprockets had this problem but the spur sprockets dont have the same issue so all new MS261 saws we supply are changed before they leave, end of problem. If a spur sprocket is retrofitted the you must check crank for scores before fitting a new bearing and spur sprocket otherwise that will fail.The same bearing is used on other saws and works fine.

Posted
Pretty much, it's something to do with a fault at Stihl's manufacturing depot when drilling/centring the clutch drums for the mid-range saws, that and the crappy plastic cages.

It's easily remedied with Oregon metal bearings and clutch drums.

 

I never had any such issue with my MS361W ( and no other issues).:001_smile:

 

Sadly, the saw got stolen (along with a 372xpg). :cursing:

Posted
I never had any such issue with my MS361W ( and no other issues).:001_smile:

 

Sadly, the saw got stolen (along with a 372xpg). :cursing:

 

 

Yeah, but the ms361 was just a slightly Stihl-ised version of the 362xp

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