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Stihl Ms 171 chains and Accessoriesa


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Hi

 

1. Cheap chains are a complete waste of money

 

2. Just buy oil in 5 ltr, look for 150T oil as thats the tackiness index as I understand it

 

3. Chainsaw bars URL above & Postal chain sharpening service | F R Jones and Son

 

4. Learn how to sharpen chains by hand, grinders are too aggressive especially with small chains & every now & then send some to FR Jones to get the cutters ground to same length, they are really good.

 

5. Yes hand sharpen in situ on the bar & send to Jonsie every now and again

 

 

N

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The course I have seen are around £300. Obviously cheap if your at risk of loosing and arm. Expensive if your cutting time is maybe 20-30 hours a year.

 

 

Have never seen a home owner course.

 

If you did CS30 ( it might be called something else now ) It will teach you how to sharpen up but also it will teach you baasic maintenance . Spinning the clutch off to change a drive sprocket , Maintain the clutch , change springs etc , oil, fuel and air filter checks spark plug etc etc . Might save you a few bob at the dealers if you can do basic maintenance also ?

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If you did CS30 ( it might be called something else now )

 

 

NPTC CS 30.1 & 30.2 (maintenance & cross cutting), CS31 ( (felling up to 380mm), is now NPTC 201 (maintenance & cutting system), 202, (cross cutting), 203 (felling up to 380mm).

Edited by TGB
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I have a MS211 with a 14 inch bar and Stihl chain. I use it to cut most of my smaller firewood. Present chain has kept me warm for a few years so no complaints. Do not let it get too blunt. I tend to give it a light sharpen every few tanks by which time it has cut a fair heap of wood. A few strokes is all you need.

Your not cutting on the ground are you? Quickest way to blunt a chain

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I have a MS211 with a 14 inch bar and Stihl chain. I use it to cut most of my smaller firewood. Present chain has kept me warm for a few years so no complaints. Do not let it get too blunt. I tend to give it a light sharpen every few tanks by which time it has cut a fair heap of wood. A few strokes is all you need.

Your not cutting on the ground are you? Quickest way to blunt a chain

 

 

Generally I try to cut suspended or sitting on other wood, and try to keep the nose clear.. Never had a kickback and don't want one. I do confess a few times I have hit soil and I didn't think it would blunt being so soft, but a few people have said that it does blunt so will have to keep it clear... Generally I try to keep it up.

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If you did CS30 ( it might be called something else now ) It will teach you how to sharpen up but also it will teach you basic maintenance . Spinning the clutch off to change a drive sprocket , Maintain the clutch , change springs etc , oil, fuel and air filter checks spark plug etc etc . Might save you a few bob at the dealers if you can do basic maintenance also ?

 

It all sounds really helpful.. I guess you recoup some of it too in chains. Just costly. I am based in Northern Ireland and we do have a few places doing courses... I have seen some similar codes to their course... They seem set up for commercial, but I guess if I get fired from my current job I have another potential profession.

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Hi

 

1. Cheap chains are a complete waste of money

 

2. Just buy oil in 5 ltr, look for 150T oil as thats the tackiness index as I understand it

 

3. Chainsaw bars URL above & Postal chain sharpening service | F R Jones and Son

 

4. Learn how to sharpen chains by hand, grinders are too aggressive especially with small chains & every now & then send some to FR Jones to get the cutters ground to same length, they are really good.

 

5. Yes hand sharpen in situ on the bar & send to Jonsie every now and again

 

 

N

 

thanks, will book mark that link

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You'll probably have the same type of caps that I have on the ms200t which turn, lock and then snap down. The oil filler cap on my Stihl can be awkward, and I do have to make sure it's closed properly. The saw does also leak a little from underneath too. Just one of those things I reckon. Probably the only way to overcome this is to empty the saw of oil once finished. Not so bad when using occasionally, but a PITA if using every day.

 

Generally, I would say your oil consumption is about right - or at least it's very similar to mine! A 5 litre tub will last for ages if just the occasional use, and so much cheaper to buy that way than in 1 litre containers. I generally pay about £16 for a 5 litre Oregon saw oil.

 

Re the 16" being slow going comment - this saw only has a small engine (30 ish cc's), and so if you try and use the entire length, or a good part of the bar, then the saw just won't have enough power to pull it through, making it cut slowly and strain the engine. I'd stick with 14" at the very max, and if you need to cut bigger stuff, either cut from both sides or buy a bigger saw (like a Husky of some sort!!!:😀)

 

 

Yes the turn and snap.. I am not sure why the oil one is harder than the petrol.... I wonder if damaged.. My oil no longer leaks.. Stihl dealer fixed for £16. Saves the oil now and the big stain on my bag and garage shelf.

 

I like the size. Nice to handle on the 14". Generally my wood is not to big.

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It's a bit ironic but the smaller your chainsaw the more sharpening you will have to do.

So the less experienced and interested you are in chainsaws the more hands on you have to provide.

 

So look at Rob's excellent videos on his website on sharpening chains. Its pretty easy and if you're not getting better results with a guide then you're doing it wrong. Stick to Stihl chain, its good and for the price saving not worth looking elsewhere.

 

Cutting with very small chains blunts very quickly but you'll need a much bigger saw before you start using 3/8 chain which lasts better.

 

 

Will check the videos thanks. I think my chains are 3/8 or is 3/8p different..

 

Thanks for advice.

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