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Spindle moulder advice


muttley9050
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I am selling my Mpower spindle moulder in a few weeks,

Mpower 512MS Spindle Moulder | Call for Demo

i run off a lot of architraves and skirting and bull nose window boards. Most of the work is done with power feeder as its usually few hundred metres at a time. It has 7.5hp motor and it is man enough but as with anything the more meat you are removing the slower you need to feed with smaller motor. to put in comparison the one you have highlighted has 1hp which is not much more than some routers.

Regarding safety etc i THINK it is now illegal to have employees using a spindle without limiters.

I buy euro blocks from a company called appleby wood trunings they are about £40 new i think, then you just buy pairs of cutters and limitas from as little as £15 ish for all 4 knives,

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Thanks. So it seems unanimous that old and heavy is best. On these modern machines it seems that all the spindles tilt through - 10 to 40degrees or so. This means you need less variety of tooling I guess. Is it pretty standard that on these old heavy machines that the spindle is always fixed as I never see a mention of tilting?

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I am selling my Mpower spindle moulder in a few weeks,

Mpower 512MS Spindle Moulder | Call for Demo

i run off a lot of architraves and skirting and bull nose window boards. Most of the work is done with power feeder as its usually few hundred metres at a time. It has 7.5hp motor and it is man enough but as with anything the more meat you are removing the slower you need to feed with smaller motor. to put in comparison the one you have highlighted has 1hp which is not much more than some routers.

Regarding safety etc i THINK it is now illegal to have employees using a spindle without limiters.

I buy euro blocks from a company called appleby wood trunings they are about £40 new i think, then you just buy pairs of cutters and limitas from as little as £15 ish for all 4 knives,

 

So what will you be wanting for yours John?

Thanks

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tilting spindles are in theory more useful, but when i looked at them i spoke to a few people and they all said they dont really use the tilting spindle.

One thing to watch is i think a tilting spindle is safer if it tilts backwards away from the user so more of the blade is covered by the stock. Most of the cheaper tilting spindles tend to tilt towards the user.

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I do have a thicknesser, and I can understand where your coming from, but the cill I have to reproduce is from old school sliding sash and they have a raised level for the staff bead to fix to, then a level flush with the angle that the sash closes against, then the angle, so don't think it would work. I'll upload a photo of the cill section tomorrow to make it clearer, there's about 200 windows in this place to sort so figure it's easier to get the sills right than adjust every window to suit. Although I could plant the top level on.

I may be interested in your machine at around 1500. Will it come with any tooling?

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looks like a big job mate, photo is tiny though.

i was thinking of £1700 but might bang it on ebay, i have a order of skirtings and archs i need to get made and dont need to sell for another 4 weeks yet, how soon are you wanting one.

cant sell it with any tooling sorry.

found this which is prob as cheap as u'll get new

Wealden Tool Company Limited Cill Block

or try apleby wood turnings, ask for jeremy

u might want to factor this and other tooling in when working out how much to spend on the molder, tooling costs add up fast.

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