Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

High compression


mickdundee
 Share

Recommended Posts

Log in or register to remove this advert

  • Replies 29
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I keep telling you, what is it aboout ignition advance and the effect of starting a machine with no retardation on the coil at start up is it that no one seems to understand:001_rolleyes:

 

 

 

The 064 has a FIXED ignition advance at around 25deg, if you pull the handle in a girly way, the engine will fire at 25 deg before the piston is at TDC and it will rip the starter from your little girly hands. You need to be manly and grasp the starter and yank the thing with conviction.

 

 

 

The MS660 has a coil that retards the ignition for an easy start and then advances it as needed for power and then retards for protection against pre-ignition at higher revs.

 

 

 

Got it:001_rolleyes:

 

 

You've over complicated it spud! Just tell them to stop being nesh, pull harder, faster and stronger!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Spud, you're like Jesus in the desert sometimes. I know the problem, I have and old 036 that will also bite your hand off if you try a wimpy pull for exactly the same reason. Luckily it usually starts first time!

 

See - old saw, fixed advance, hurting hand......pull hard......simple:thumbup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just for my own peace of mind. I've had this saw for 4 year. It had been running the day before. When this happened there was a very noticeable increase in effort required to pull it over from one pull to the next. So much so that I was worried if I'd tried to get it to go I'd probably have ended up snapping a pull cord.

I removed the plug this morning and tipped it up, nothing came out but it's had all night to dry out anyway with the exhaust off. So I'm going to put it back together shortly and see if there's any change. Hopefully it was caused by trying to compress petrol that had leaked in. The gaps seem ok at the flywheel and the coil.

Had a look on eBay last night and the same saws are all £100 more than I paid for this one so don't fancy replacing it. God knows whose paying that though, you can get a brand new echo for that sort of money with a 5 year home owner warranty.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Mick, as you can`t find anything obvious I think your flooding Scenario is a good candidate, another similar thing to consider, which I get from time to time, is that when conditions are very wet the floss on the air filter can get a bit sodden just due to dampness or condensaton so the moisture being drawn in with the mixture on the first few pulls can make it feel like the piston`s hitting a brick wall, it can get very wet up here and I`ve got a couple of older 80`s Stihls which have pretty basic filters which can get very damp, just a thought, cheers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's alive :thumbup:

Thanks for the input everyone, I'm guessing as spud suggested fuel has leaked in causing high compression and now it's dry it's back to normal. If it happens again hopefully it'll be back up and running much quicker. On that note if this does become a recurring problem would that need a complete new carb?

 

Thanks again, Mick

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's alive :thumbup:

Thanks for the input everyone, I'm guessing as spud suggested fuel has leaked in causing high compression and now it's dry it's back to normal. If it happens again hopefully it'll be back up and running much quicker. On that note if this does become a recurring problem would that need a complete new carb?

 

Thanks again, Mick

 

No, you just need a full carb kit - would recommend Rowena Motors for that being the UK dealership for all the main carb manufacturers on garden equipment plus you will find them a lot cheaper than Stihl who re-brand the Zama/Walbro kits.

 

It is the needle valve within the carb that can leak fuel through and does so on older machines. It is found under the metering arm!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No, you just need a full carb kit - would recommend Rowena Motors for that being the UK dealership for all the main carb manufacturers on garden equipment plus you will find them a lot cheaper than Stihl who re-brand the Zama/Walbro kits.

 

It is the needle valve within the carb that can leak fuel through and does so on older machines. It is found under the metering arm!

 

Top man spud thanks :thumbup1:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share


  •  

  • Featured Adverts

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.