pointing posts

[wills-mill]

Festool Sword Saw....

[PeakOakFrames]

Find a local timber framer. We've got the kit for this sort of thing. If you we're oop North I'd say run them over for a pint.

[Python]

How about building a basic ply box to sleeve over the post but have one side with the angle required already removed, then stick a thin wood or plastic shim to your saws bar and cut it that way running the shim along the ply? it won't damage the ply so it can be rotated round to the next face ensuring that each cut is then at the same angle

[Ukulian]

Many industrial bandsaws have a 12" depth of cut. Couple of roller stands to take the weight and away you go. :)

[Stoke Wood Project]

Cut with a circular saw first, then finish the cut with a handsaw. You'll be surprised how accurate it is. I do that all the time on posts. Remember that if your circular saw usually cuts 4 inches perpendicular to the timber, then the steeper the angle, the shallower it cuts. Cheers

[OliB]

I use an alaskan minimill for this sort of thing. For square sawing I have 2 4"x2"'s screwed together to make a L shape, overlapping at the corner, and a 6"x2" screwed over the 4"x2" to sit down the length of the beam/sleeper. The other 4"x2" sits across the beam/sleeper with an alaskan minimill rail fixed on that. I just clamp it in place and it doesn't move, which is preferable to screwing it down and putting holes in good timber. Cuts a perfect square edge every time using a sharp small chainsaw. I did have one set to 30 degrees for weather tops aswell.

I'm probably going to make another one at 8 foot long with a square at each end to regularise sleepers and gateposts without having to measure anything.

[OliB]

Thought a couple of photos would aid my description. Can't find the 30 degree one I use for weathertops, so this is just for squaring beams/sleepers/posts, but I'm sure you get the idea.

 

Also, having looked at it, it's 2 6"x2"'s and a 4"x2", not the other way around, as the mini mill probably wouldn't sit on a 4"x2".