Jotul 163 Log Stove

[oakeydokie]

Thats exactly why I send written instructions as it can be 3 months from first discussion to when a customer is looking to use it in their own home.

 

If the top lifts off then stove fans are not that good, temps on the sides are typically 450/500F, on top around 200F which is not really hot enough for a fan to work properly. fixed top then it should be fine.

 

A

 

Yeah mines a fixed top with glass front door and quarter glass panels either side.

[Fiskar]

OP, I have a 163 installed a year, nice stove. At the start when I got it I had a lot of difficulty starting it, I also have a Morso 1412 Squirrel.

 

Both are DEFRA stoves but they both have to be lit differently, the Morso being easier as it has two air vent dampers. The F163 has a facility for an outside air attachment if air is a problem you may need to attach this to the outside.

 

I too had a lot of issues with black glass at the start and had to clean it with paper and ashes 3 times in the first month but have not cleaned the glass since May as I now light it correctly. The 163 has self cleaning glass, when you get a good hot fire going it will clean the soot off the glass quite quickly.

 

You have to light it with very dry newspaper, kindling, 1 small firelighter and layer the logs across it. Pull the damper out fully, light the paper and leave the door ajar until all the paper is lit and the kindling has started to light. Then close the door, wait until the fire has taken hold on the logs before pushing the damper in to the red line. One the logs are burning well then you can push the damper in about 5 to 10mm further.

I now have on the vertical flue 100 mm above the top of the stove a magnetic flue thermometer (Lidl) that was given to me. Once it hits 200C I close in the damper, not before that.

I burn maple, pine and ash in it and cannot fault it.

 

Hope this of help.

[oakeydokie]

OP, I have a 163 installed a year, nice stove. At the start when I got it I had a lot of difficulty starting it, I also have a Morso 1412 Squirrel.

 

Both are DEFRA stoves but they both have to be lit differently, the Morso being easier as it has two air vent dampers. The F163 has a facility for an outside air attachment if air is a problem you may need to attach this to the outside.

 

I too had a lot of issues with black glass at the start and had to clean it with paper and ashes 3 times in the first month but have not cleaned the glass since May as I now light it correctly. The 163 has self cleaning glass, when you get a good hot fire going it will clean the soot off the glass quite quickly.

 

You have to light it with very dry newspaper, kindling, 1 small firelighter and layer the logs across it. Pull the damper out fully, light the paper and leave the door ajar until all the paper is lit and the kindling has started to light. Then close the door, wait until the fire has taken hold on the logs before pushing the damper in to the red line. One the logs are burning well then you can push the damper in about 5 to 10mm further.

I now have on the vertical flue 100 mm above the top of the stove a magnetic flue thermometer (Lidl) that was given to me. Once it hits 200C I close in the damper, not before that.

I burn maple, pine and ash in it and cannot fault it.

 

Hope this of help.

 

Yes you're spot on I've only had mine a couple of days I was concerned about getting the fire too hot and damaging the unit but now realise you need it hot enough to keep glass clear, now works a treat.

 

I have also ordered a flue thermometer to help control high end heat - don't want a melt down.

 

The radiating fan that sits on top is very good too.

[Alycidon]

[

Y

ou have to light it with very dry newspaper, kindling, 1 small firelighter and layer the logs across it. Pull the damper out fully, light the paper and leave the door ajar until all the paper is lit and the kindling has started to light. Then close the door, wait until the fire has taken hold on the logs before pushing the damper in to the red line. One the logs are burning well then you can push the damper in about 5 to 10mm further.

 

Hope this of help.

 

Thats basically it, get plenty of oxygen into it. Jotul are tough stoves.

 

A

[Fiskar]

Good stuff, have mine lit as due to have a frost here tonight, roasty toasty. Burning rotten beech (burns like dry spruce), nice and hot

[oakeydokie]

[

Y

 

Thats basically it, get plenty of oxygen into it. Jotul are tough stoves.

 

A

 

Good learning curve.

[oakeydokie]

Good stuff, have mine lit as due to have a frost here tonight, roasty toasty. Burning rotten beech (burns like dry spruce), nice and hot

 

Looking forward to winter now so bring it on

[tz1_1zt]

Multi window stoves shed heat like mad, so you always have to work harder to get that internal high combustion temperature established.

 

Always keep in mind that both the stove and flue system need to be up to full working temperature before you get efficient and clean wood combustion, not just the flue pipe. The flue pipe thermometers are a good idea, but with a three sided stove you need to be looking for the fire-bricks 'burning clean'. Correct internal combustion temperatures will burn the carbon deposits off of the bricks. Then you know its nice and hot inside, not just hot in the flue pipe.

 

The Swiss fire lighting method is useful because the uncovered kindling burns hot and fast before the bigger logs. I've put a detailed description on our website if you are interested; here. Hope that helps.

[Stubby]

I think when it says " close " it means close it just enough to achieve the desired , controlled burn not close it fully .

[oakeydokie]

Multi window stoves shed heat like mad, so you always have to work harder to get that internal high combustion temperature established.

 

Always keep in mind that both the stove and flue system need to be up to full working temperature before you get efficient and clean wood combustion, not just the flue pipe. The flue pipe thermometers are a good idea, but with a three sided stove you need to be looking for the fire-bricks 'burning clean'. Correct internal combustion temperatures will burn the carbon deposits off of the bricks. Then you know its nice and hot inside, not just hot in the flue pipe.

 

The Swiss fire lighting method is useful because the uncovered kindling burns hot and fast before the bigger logs. I've put a detailed description on our website if you are interested; here. Hope that helps.

 

That makes a lot of sense - thanks