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Breaking in a new saw


keptenjim
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What's the general feeling about new saw break in period? The manual says "do not use full throttle off load for 3 tank fillings" So full throttle is OK as long as you're cutting wood? Doesn't sound very precise - maybe I'm a bit over cautious in view of the cost of new saws

 

Hi Jim well done mate on a new saw what saw have you got and what 2 stoke oil do you use mate just take it easy for the 1st 6)8 fills mate thanks Jon

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Hi Jim well done mate on a new saw what saw have you got and what 2 stoke oil do you use mate just take it easy for the 1st 6)8 fills mate thanks Jon

 

This afternoon picked up new 880, tomorrow morning 5' diameter Beech stem to ring up and it's been down 4 years :blushing: If the middle's any good i'll mill it too:blushing:

 

HP Super in all saws and anal about mixing and fresh fuel.

 

Regards,

 

Steve.

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Rev it hard for short periods, it is the build up if excessive heat that should be avoided.

 

You basically want the piston and ring to wear in on the freshly honed bore whilst it is new and rough.

 

Running it in slow will glaze the bore and stop this happening.

 

Flat out in the cut for short periods.

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This afternoon picked up new 880, tomorrow morning 5' diameter Beech stem to ring up and it's been down 4 years :blushing: If the middle's any good i'll mill it too:blushing:

 

HP Super in all saws and anal about mixing and fresh fuel.

 

Regards,

 

Steve.

 

HI STEVE best of luck steve out side edge will very hard mate as you if it been down for 4 years I've a large beech to do here thats going to be hard too loads of knot in timber last time we done a large beech we hit a stone 2ft into the beech butt with the 880 good job it was only frome stone soft if it was mendip stone kiss good by to the chain all the best jon :thumbup:

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I've heard and tried various things over the years. Run through a full tank of fuel on tick over, auto tune saws want burying in big wood full tilt, gentle use for the first few tanks etc. Nothing seems definitive to me, I haven't yet (touch wood) killed a new saw. Currently running in a new 550xp, it had a few tanks of two stroke through on demo then I've switched to aspen. I've run about 7/8 tanks through and it's loosening up and flying.

 

I reckon spud is the man to look to for anything with an engine :)

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Rev it hard for short periods, it is the build up if excessive heat that should be avoided.

 

You basically want the piston and ring to wear in on the freshly honed bore whilst it is new and rough.

 

Running it in slow will glaze the bore and stop this happening.

 

Flat out in the cut for short periods.

 

How long would you do this for spud?

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I've heard and tried various things over the years. Run through a full tank of fuel on tick over, auto tune saws want burying in big wood full tilt, gentle use for the first few tanks etc. Nothing seems definitive to me, I haven't yet (touch wood) killed a new saw. Currently running in a new 550xp, it had a few tanks of two stroke through on demo then I've switched to aspen. I've run about 7/8 tanks through and it's loosening up and flying.

 

I reckon spud is the man to look to for anything with an engine :)

 

HI DAN your right there mate steve/spud your man all so on porting saw too mate so he will no best to run them new saws in to :thumbup1:next year my 660 going to be spud ported thanks jon

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HI STEVE best of luck steve out side edge will very hard mate as you if it been down for 4 years I've a large beech to do here thats going to be hard too loads of knot in timber last time we done a large beech we hit a stone 2ft into the beech butt with the 880 good job it was only frome stone soft if it was mendip stone kiss good by to the chain all the best jon :thumbup:

 

4-5' diameter 18' long down 4 years but kept off the ground...

 

Hoping the spalting's gone through but not turned to pulp, last one was soft in a lot of places.

 

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Regards,

 

Steve.

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