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Posted

The saw starts great every time I was looking at it today trying to make my mind up on wether to take on a rebuild or not as I'm not sure I can do it.

I'm ok on the basics removing oiler and so on but not sure on a rebuild I could do with a good reliable saw too on a scale of 1to10 how difificult is it for a novice cheers

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Posted
The saw starts great every time I was looking at it today trying to make my mind up on wether to take on a rebuild or not as I'm not sure I can do it.

I'm ok on the basics removing oiler and so on but not sure on a rebuild I could do with a good reliable saw too on a scale of 1to10 how difificult is it for a novice cheers

 

Generally dealers will write a saw off with bottom end issues out of cost. Splitting the cases and doing this sort if work is about as in depth as it gets.

 

The main issue is driving off the case and bearing cleanly from the crankshaft. The ball races have a tendency to stick on the crankshaft - last one I did actually pushed the bearing clean out if the cases and was near impossible to get off the crankshaft.

 

Generally having a big G clamp,a big bench vice and a crank splitter makes life easier but these type of jobs are generally never text book!

Posted

Not being funny but i have split and rebuilt hundreds of machines, yes the bearings are tight on the crank but this is how they should be, if the bearings are loose there is wear on the crank journals, the outer surface of the bearing is also an interference fit in the crankcase hence you need a puller to part them, it can also be done by heating the crankcase to expand the case, i have also done it this way, but now use the correct tools, the openings in the case are not blind so there are tools with the correct spacing for the bearings to align the crank in the case, as i said if you want to send me the bottom end i will split it for you at a reasonable cost.

Posted

For the novice, this is a difficult job. The last one I did was a 660, the bar side case came off fine, the other side was a bitch with the crank taking the bearing out if the casing with it.

 

I used pullers on the bearing and it still wouldn't move and ended up using heat which did it but trashed the bearing.

 

Others have been a breeze - thats life.

 

You could give it a go but either little engineering skills, it may be easier to strip it and get the job done elsewhere!

Posted

I have split and rebuilt every Husqvarna machine built includibg 560 ,550, 545, T540 auto tune machines, the 162 will be a easy job, so the offer still stands.

Posted

Well I managed to strip the saw and split it with some gear pullers ordered a gasket set from ebay and with some help and advice from adw and other members hope to get the saw refurbed and up and running

image.jpg.96372e3f66220042ff260025957c3400.jpg

Posted
Well I managed to strip the saw and split it with some gear pullers ordered a gasket set from ebay and with some help and advice from adw and other members hope to get the saw refurbed and up and running

 

Well done, getting on, would also fit new crank seals if you haven't already - the clutch side is the most common to fail but do both!

Posted
Well done, getting on, would also fit new crank seals if you haven't already - the clutch side is the most common to fail but do both!

 

Will do spud they come free with the gasket set I orderd some special offer :thumbup:

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