stihl ms 362

[gmeneaud]

i would appreciate some advice please.

i have a stihl ms 362.made in 2011 but never used until this year.

it has been used probably once every couple of weeks to cut firewood and i have used around ten fuel fills.

no problems until the chain started to run while on tickover and the saw stalled when i applied the brake.

i have tried to adjust as per the owners manual but no success and now am totally lost as to the relative positions of the adjusting screws.

the saw now will only start on part choke and will not idle.

 

is there a factory setting to which i can revert and start all over again?

is it a clutch problem?

should i just take it to the stihl dealer?

 

all advice gratefully received.

 

thanks and regards.

[Marc]

Sounds like a broken clutch spring, a very simple cheap repair, remove the e clip holding the clutch bell and have a look at the springs.

[spudulike]

A broken clutch spring is possible. It is also possible you have some twine of fibrous debris wrapped around the crank end.

 

Pull off the clutch drum and check out the above, grease the needle bearing, make sure the clutch has a little lube sprayed on it and try again - if the clutch drum is binding on the clutch or crank, this will have the effect you have.

 

In all the above, I am assuming your idle is runing as normal - around 2800rpm.

[gmeneaud]

thanks for the suggestions. it was the clutch grabbing, i have cleaned the drum and greased the bearing and there is now no grabbing or binding.

now i am having a problem getting the saw to start and then when it starts it wont idle.

any suggestions?

[Logan]

Hi there mate, sounds like you've had fun!? The factory settings are on stickers next to the screws, but if it were me I would take it to a chainsaw repair pro of good repute and get it tuned up! I used to adjust saws years ago, but I know a man who does much better job of it so these days am happy to let him do it and they run well!

 

Good luck, John.

 

Ps where abouts are you?

[Adam M]

A broken clutch spring is possible. It is also possible you have some twine of fibrous debris wrapped around the crank end.

 

 

Used to get that all the time when cutting alder on the edge of a fishing lake.

[Logan]

oh yes, if you do have a go, try and set to factory settings, then get it started and keep it running, get the saw properly hot so have some big logs handy or just keep it running ten mins, then make minute I mean totally tiny adjustments and try it out, rev it up, you might get it better than factory setting if you have understanding of the role of the 2 screws plus the tick over screw, which you might need to wind in a bit initially, then out later when you've tuned it better.

 

If not, see above post!

 

Cheers, John.

[spudulike]

Setting carb is a bit of a black art but once you have done a number, it becomes relatively easy or at least easier:thumbup:

 

The art on the L screw is to wind it in until the idle speed rises and starts to falter and then to wind it back out around 1/4 turn - I go on the engine note to set it as it sounds sort of poppy but 1/4 turn from the peak should do it.

 

The H screw can cause all sorts of issue - set it to as rich as the limiters will allow and see if it sounds OK.

 

The best way to set it is with a tach but unless you know what you are doing, rich is preferable to lean and this can cause a seize.