stihl 064

[pixie]

All

 

Have watched these posts for a few years now and now am in need of some advice myself !! (I suspect spud may have the answers !!)

recently bought an early but clean 064, which starts well from both cold and hot and runs fine. I was asked by a colleague to help him clear some poplar that he'd had professionally felled, but to save money would clear up himself !! (he has a 16" ryobi saw which i've just shown him how to sharpen!!) it was a good opportunity to try the 064, but wasn't expecting a bit of poplar ranging from 20" to nearly 45" diameter !!

to cut to the chase, the tree was ringed up in about an hour, but I noticed that when the saw was cutting almost the full length of the bar (25") it would stop the chain with moderate pressure on it (ie slipping on the clutch) and then sometimes the engine would be bogged down so that I would need to lift the chain in the cut and give it some throttle to get the engine to pick up enough speed to spin the chain up. my "normal" saw is a 346XP which doesn't seem to bog down the engine once the clutch is slipping and it spins up as soon as pressure is off the bar.

 

it is a nearly 20 yr old saw and a much bigger unit than i have used in the past and i am not a pro user, but it did seem a bit odd it bogged down so much the engine struggled momentarily to pick up revs until the bar was lifted in the cut. having said that it did cut it efficiently and cleanly, i just didn't seem able to 'make it have it ' like i thought it would !!

 

do i need to start checking for anything or am i just paranoid !!, spark is good as is compression, runs a bit fast on idle, but it looks like it has not had a professional life as it is quite clean and not abused !

 

thoughts please !!

 

Paul

[spudulike]

If the clutch is slipping, the revs will rise whilst the chain will slow or stop - bit like a car on a sharp incline with a slipping clutch - a rise in revs, lack of drive and a hot smell.

 

If the saw is bogging, you are probably having to clear the build up of fuel in the saw to get it revving and that is why it is a little reluctant to rev out after heavy bogging.

 

A 25" bar is a reasonable load for the saw - if the chain is in good condition and sharp, it should pull it reasonably OK but would not load it up too much if it doesn't like it. Poplar is a light wood and should cut reasonably easily.

 

The saw may need a bit of carb tuning - if it is rich as I think it may be, the plug will be black or very dark brown. Make sure tha air filter and the filter back plate are clean and a compression check would be useful - 145-150 is pretty normal for these saws - a worn bore/piston will give lack of power.

[Johny Walker]

All

 

Have watched these posts for a few years now and now am in need of some advice myself !! (I suspect spud may have the answers !!)

recently bought an early but clean 064, which starts well from both cold and hot and runs fine. I was asked by a colleague to help him clear some poplar that he'd had professionally felled, but to save money would clear up himself !! (he has a 16" ryobi saw which i've just shown him how to sharpen!!) it was a good opportunity to try the 064, but wasn't expecting a bit of poplar ranging from 20" to nearly 45" diameter !!

to cut to the chase, the tree was ringed up in about an hour, but I noticed that when the saw was cutting almost the full length of the bar (25") it would stop the chain with moderate pressure on it (ie slipping on the clutch) and then sometimes the engine would be bogged down so that I would need to lift the chain in the cut and give it some throttle to get the engine to pick up enough speed to spin the chain up. my "normal" saw is a 346XP which doesn't seem to bog down the engine once the clutch is slipping and it spins up as soon as pressure is off the bar.

 

it is a nearly 20 yr old saw and a much bigger unit than i have used in the past and i am not a pro user, but it did seem a bit odd it bogged down so much the engine struggled momentarily to pick up revs until the bar was lifted in the cut. having said that it did cut it efficiently and cleanly, i just didn't seem able to 'make it have it ' like i thought it would !!

 

do i need to start checking for anything or am i just paranoid !!, spark is good as is compression, runs a bit fast on idle, but it looks like it has not had a professional life as it is quite clean and not abused !

 

thoughts please !!

 

Paul

 

 

pop saw dust/chips can expand wen cut bogging the chain down ,you may need to puull the saw clear to clear any blockage ,

[18 stoner]

A good clean out, new plug, reset of carb and fitting skip chain would cure it all I reckon.

[miker]

is your sawdust/chips clearing ok , if you are at full bar length with nose buried then you can easily send sawdust /chips back up the bar and under chain, causing a stall, hope that makes sense

[spudulike]

The clutch shouldn't slip which was one of the things I was getting at. As a saw bogs down, the revs die and when they get low enough, the centrifugal clutch doesn't push on to the clutch drum so hard and it slips.

 

A saw on full bore shouldn't get clutch slip, if it is, check the weighted clutch shoes haven't worn below their limit. A look at the gap between the clutch shoe and the drum should show you if the clutch is worn, a big gap = wear:thumbdown:

 

Sounds like the saw needs a bit of TLC!

[pixie]

Many thanks to all for the advice and comments, apologies for the delays in replying, unfortunately the day job has been getting in the way of the hobby!!

Maybe i wasn't completely clear, the clutch isn't slipping during use, in fact when i got the saw, I stripped the clutch and checked it(no excessive wear), replaced the clutch springs and as i dropped on a genuine stihl clutch and rim sprocket set for £6, replaced that as well , even though the spur sprocket on it has some wear on the sprocket but no ridge on the inside of the drum or signs of a hard life Also replaced bar, chain and filters as well as adding an elastostart after nearly ripping my fingers off when it kicked back (decompression valves were a great invention!!). The plug does show signs of having been fouled, but it seems to be ok at the moment, but it won't do any harm to reset the carb (any suggestions on settings please) I did alter the idle speed to stop the chain spinning up on idle, but nothing other than that.

the complaint is that when the chain load gets too much and the saw bogs down, you have to clear the chain and then it takes 2-4 seconds to try and clear the engine before the revs pick up again.

 

if there is any other advice, please let me know and thanks again for the helpful comments.

 

regards

 

Paul:thumbup1:

[spudulike]

Many thanks to all for the advice and comments, apologies for the delays in replying, unfortunately the day job has been getting in the way of the hobby!!

Maybe i wasn't completely clear, the clutch isn't slipping during use, in fact when i got the saw, I stripped the clutch and checked it(no excessive wear), replaced the clutch springs and as i dropped on a genuine stihl clutch and rim sprocket set for £6, replaced that as well , even though the spur sprocket on it has some wear on the sprocket but no ridge on the inside of the drum or signs of a hard life Also replaced bar, chain and filters as well as adding an elastostart after nearly ripping my fingers off when it kicked back (decompression valves were a great invention!!). The plug does show signs of having been fouled, but it seems to be ok at the moment, but it won't do any harm to reset the carb (any suggestions on settings please) I did alter the idle speed to stop the chain spinning up on idle, but nothing other than that.

the complaint is that when the chain load gets too much and the saw bogs down, you have to clear the chain and then it takes 2-4 seconds to try and clear the engine before the revs pick up again.

 

if there is any other advice, please let me know and thanks again for the helpful comments.

 

regards

 

Paul:thumbup1:

 

The carb shouldn't have limiters on them so turn the H&L screws all the way in and turn each screw one turn out and try this setting

 

 

The idle may need adjustment and check the plug colour after 1/2 hours of use!

 

Don't go any less than one turn out on the H screw, it may seize the engine if the saw over revs

[pixie]

Evening all

 

done a few more checks on saw, picked up a sykes pickavant compression tester on ebay for a tenner, shows saw at just over 150psi after 6 pulls, so looks ok, reset carb as instructed which was pretty much where it was originally and have heeded high setting warning! runs ok though it is a very fine balance to get it to idle without enough speed to set the chain just moving. could this be an air leak somewhere? worth doing a pressure test ?

will try and get half an hour cutting some 20" poplar that needs ringing up to see what the plug is like and if it still bogs down, assume I can tweak the low setting to get it to pick up a bit quicker?

 

any other pointers ? or am i just more paranoid than ever!!

 

Pix

[spudulike]

Evening all

 

done a few more checks on saw, picked up a sykes pickavant compression tester on ebay for a tenner, shows saw at just over 150psi after 6 pulls, so looks ok, reset carb as instructed which was pretty much where it was originally and have heeded high setting warning! runs ok though it is a very fine balance to get it to idle without enough speed to set the chain just moving. could this be an air leak somewhere? worth doing a pressure test ?

will try and get half an hour cutting some 20" poplar that needs ringing up to see what the plug is like and if it still bogs down, assume I can tweak the low setting to get it to pick up a bit quicker?

 

any other pointers ? or am i just more paranoid than ever!!

 

Pix

 

If you are having to run a very low idle speed to stop the saw spinning the chain on idle then the saw probably has weak clutch springs - the chain should start spinning on a semi fast idle and not on a normal 2800rpm idle.

 

An air leak gives a variable idle speed and a tendency to hold on to revs when the throttle is released - a real bad one will make the idle impossible to bring down without running a super rich L speed setting - 2 - 2.5 turns out!