660 chain brake greasing

[morten]

The chain brake HANDLE becomes soft and then doesn't work unless you really thump it forward, sometimes it doesn't work at all.

 

Fixed that for you

[Jonny Burch]

Fixed that for you

 

Thankyou

[wyk]

Removing the baffle goes a long way to preventing problems. It allows the exhaust to flow straight towards the front port.

 

[dexta]

The chain brake becomes soft and then doesn't work unless you really thump it forward, sometimes it doesn't work at all.

 

Sounds like they don't think there is a problem so no cure from them then. Thanks for your reply

[RobRainford]

I have a 660 and haven't noticed any problems yet with the chain brake,what is it doing to it? . Is there a part to cure said problem and cost off. Rob rainford what was the cost of porting , possibly would rather do that than buying replacement parts. Thanks

 

 

Not ported. Just bought the dual port muffler. £25 on eBay. Plus £20 to get it fitted and retuned to match the new muffler

[HTC]

I had the same problem on my 2011 MS660 with the handle going soft after about 10 min's hard work. Brake wouldn't come on no matter how hard I thumped the hand guard.

It got so bad that the guard was coming into direct contact with the silencer and melting chunks out of it (I guess I should have just stopped pushing it so hard !).

Having read these threads I took it into the local dealer who contacted Stihl. They recommended a new handle and greasing the mechanism.

I was pretty doubtful but said go ahead.

The new handle arrived and looked identical to the original, though might have been made of different material. The dealer fitted it all together with a load of grease inside (not something needed in any of my other Stihl saws).

Sure enough, after half an hour of ringing up an ash trunk the brake was still clicking on and off perfectly. Had I known that's all it would have taken I would have just fitted the new handle myself.

[mendiplogs]

I had the same problem on my 2011 MS660 with the handle going soft after about 10 min's hard work. Brake wouldn't come on no matter how hard I thumped the hand guard.

It got so bad that the guard was coming into direct contact with the silencer and melting chunks out of it (I guess I should have just stopped pushing it so hard !).

Having read these threads I took it into the local dealer who contacted Stihl. They recommended a new handle and greasing the mechanism.

I was pretty doubtful but said go ahead.

The new handle arrived and looked identical to the original, though might have been made of different material. The dealer fitted it all together with a load of grease inside (not something needed in any of my other Stihl saws).

Sure enough, after half an hour of ringing up an ash trunk the brake was still clicking on and off perfectly. Had I known that's all it would have taken I would have just fitted the new handle myself.

HI HTC on the back of my 461 saw theres a heat guard on the back of chain brake thanks jon

[spudulike]

This was my solution - braze in a top deflector