Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

HTC

Member
  • Posts

    3
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About HTC

  • Birthday 23/06/1966

Personal Information

  • Location:
    Glos
  • Occupation
    Modest arborist business
  • City
    Tetbury

HTC's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

  • First Post
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later
  • One Year In

Recent Badges

  1. I had the same problem on my 2011 MS660 with the handle going soft after about 10 min's hard work. Brake wouldn't come on no matter how hard I thumped the hand guard. It got so bad that the guard was coming into direct contact with the silencer and melting chunks out of it (I guess I should have just stopped pushing it so hard !). Having read these threads I took it into the local dealer who contacted Stihl. They recommended a new handle and greasing the mechanism. I was pretty doubtful but said go ahead. The new handle arrived and looked identical to the original, though might have been made of different material. The dealer fitted it all together with a load of grease inside (not something needed in any of my other Stihl saws). Sure enough, after half an hour of ringing up an ash trunk the brake was still clicking on and off perfectly. Had I known that's all it would have taken I would have just fitted the new handle myself.
  2. I've used a variation on Sideleaner's link: just held the threaded shank of the greentooth in the chuck of a drill. While gently pressing the worn face of the tooth onto the revolving diamond wheel, I spun the tooth in the drill. Due to the concave face of the tooth, it will sit against the d-wheel at the correct angle (as long as you're gentle!) Bought the correct size diamond wheel (100mm x 4mm) from D K Holdings for £120 inc. VAT & delivery. Put a damp cloth beneath the grinding wheel to trap as much dust as possible. Still wore a respirator though. Took about 5 to 10 min's per tooth to remove about 1.5mm from the face. See pic's below: sharpened tooth and sharpening in progress.
  3. Hi Warren, Try this: http://www.hse.gov.uk/research/rrpdf/rr668.pdf Its a huge document (350+ pages) and takes an age to download but will get there eventually. The chart of green log metric weights is on page 147 of the PDF document or page 140 of the paper itself (they dont count the 7 pages of titles, index, dedications etc.)It prints out quite small but is still legible. The conversion factors for different types of wood other than oak are on the following pages. Hope this helps.

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.