Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

rotten lime dismantle


testcricket01
 Share

Recommended Posts

Log in or register to remove this advert

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

havent a clue y i had 2 hands on rear handle

 

cause the saws blunt-a big saw like that should fly through that lime and sounds like the chains too tight!:001_smile:

 

how long you been working for?

 

keep it up, but loose the afore mentioned bad habits before you keep them!

 

im with you about the gloves, never use them in the tree, and only when its below freezing will i wear them when felling

Link to comment
Share on other sites

cause the saws blunt-a big saw like that should fly through that lime and sounds like the chains too tight!:001_smile:

 

how long you been working for?

 

keep it up, but loose the afore mentioned bad habits before you keep them!

 

im with you about the gloves, never use them in the tree, and only when its below freezing will i wear them when felling

 

was fine cutting up in the tree but then i changed to the 42" bar nd chain and new chain i tightened it up more than i should cause i didnt want it goin loose when i was felling since would expand since was first use but chain was to tight

 

im only 18 will start my 3rd year climbing when im 19 in july:001_smile:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why was the non-chainsaw operator wearing chainsaw gloves, yet you the operator werent?:confused1:

 

because groundy was dealing with a wire cable so he was wearing gloves and my self i cant get on with wearing gloves and operateing a saw thanks

 

im with you about the gloves, never use them in the tree, and only when its below freezing will i wear them when felling

 

I think it wise to keep in mind, that if this is a life career & you use chainsaws regularly, then it is vitaly important to keep your saws well maintained and your hands warm.

 

The dangers of White Finger brought on by Hand Arm Vibration syndrome is a very real hazard, and one that many a crippled old 'hand' would have appreciated the hind sight and understanding of, to help save them from this painful affliction.

 

 

I'll be honest, I never really subsribed to my own preaching on this, as I too never felt comfortable wearing a thick second skin, but consider my self fortunate to not have spent every day squeezing a trigger.

But I do know a good few poor souls that have, and are paying the price :sad:

 

Take care of yourselves..................no one else will.

 

 

.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think it wise to keep in mind, that if this is a life career & you use chainsaws regularly, then it is vitaly important to keep your saws well maintained and your hands warm.

 

The dangers of White Finger brought on by Hand Arm Vibration syndrome is a very real hazard, and one that many a crippled old 'hand' would have appreciated the hind sight and understanding of, to help save them from this painful affliction.

 

 

I'll be honest, I never really subsribed to my own preaching on this, as I too never felt comfortable wearing a thick second skin, but consider my self fortunate to not have spent every day squeezing a trigger.

But I do know a good few poor souls that have, and are paying the price :sad:

 

Take care of yourselves..................no one else will.

 

 

.

 

yer i do agree with you people should wear gloves if useing chainsaws regularly i do use gloves on ground work now but not chainsaw gloves but i think alot of people would feel up tree its properly more dangrous makeing ya self wear gloves and not being able climb as well as if you didnt have gloves on

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can't remember that last time I wore gloves ??

 

Think it was on a big Hawthorne hedge I did when I was using the silky, viscous things you know them silkys.

 

Oh and while we're on the subject of why we are supposed to wear gloves, I had a chain snap on me the other day on my 020, threw the chain clear into the next tree.

 

So boys and girls, don't listen to your uncle dean, wear your gloves or else.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cricket,

 

Just a few observations mate....... your left-handed right? why not go to the opposite side of the tree and use the saw right-handed for those backcuts? you'll probably be more accurate with the saw, get a better work-position and it'll allow you to dig the spikes into the bark to support the heavy saw for the start of the cut.

 

At 2.53 you untie your mainline and throw it out the way and start cutting without re-attaching it beneath the flipline. Maybe start tieing in twice, you've got your main climbing line with you, might as well throw it round under your flipline as a back up, sometimes having the extra line can get you into a better postion for the making the cuts - sharing your weight between the harness and the spikes if you tie your climbing line into your front D or front attachment point.

 

At 8.00 watch your thumb on the front handle, if your hand goes over for whatever reason and hits that speeding chain its mince...splintered bone mince, bloody stumps etc.

 

At 2.29 you take your front hand off the handle and place it very near the backcut with your trigger hand still in place, probably not a good idea when the chainbreak isn't on.

 

At 2.50 just wondered who taught you to cut a kerf (V) in the top of the stem for an anchor point for your main line. Heard of people falling out the tree when the rope creeps out of the kerf.

 

At 3.35 you start the saw without the brake on, not that big a deal, but your holding the saw with your left hand on the trigger up a tree. Also try to pull the starter handle till you feel it bite before you give it a big pull start, doesnt that saw have a decompression valve?

 

Other people have mentioned other things, Tom D makes a good point on the winch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

.

Edited by scotspine1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cricket,

 

Just a few observations mate....... your left-handed right? why not go to the opposite side of the tree and use the saw right-handed for those backcuts? you'll probably be more accurate with the saw, get a better work-position and it'll allow you to dig the spikes into the bark to support the heavy saw for the start of the cut.

 

At 2.53 you untie your mainline and throw it out the way and start cutting without re-attaching it beneath the flipline. Maybe start tieing in twice, you've got your main climbing line with you, might as well throw it round under your flipline as a back up, sometimes having the extra line can get you into a better postion for the making the cuts - sharing your weight between the harness and the spikes if you tie your climbing line into your front D or front attachment point.

 

At 8.00 watch your thumb on the front handle, if your hand goes over for whatever reason and hits that speeding chain its mince...splintered bone mince, bloody stumps etc.

 

At 2.29 you take your front hand off the handle and place it very near the backcut with your trigger hand still in place, probably not a good idea when the chainbreak isn't on.

 

At 2.50 just wondered who taught you to cut a kerf (V) in the top of the stem for an anchor point for your main line. Heard of people falling out the tree when the rope creeps out of the kerf.

 

At 3.35 you start the saw without the brake on, not that big a deal, but your holding the saw with your left hand on the trigger up a tree. Also try to pull the starter handle till you feel it bite before you give it a big pull start, doesnt that saw have a decompression valve?

 

Other people have mentioned other things, Tom D makes a good point on the winch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

.

 

cheers for the advice didnt think to go otherside of tree ill have to try that out i usually do tie my mainline in but its just cause had that big saw wanted to just do it quick as i could really and my mainline was jst stuck over tree in the gob from the cut before jst to hold some of the weight while groundy was cutting sections up nd handing me back the winch cable and strops etc i still had my lanyard and spikes but ill bare that in mind next time thanks for advice

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share


  •  

  • Featured Adverts

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.