The Mower Bench

[GardenKit]

Just make sure the hydroshift cable is adjusted so that the mower is stationary when the lever is right back towards the operator, but moves as soon as the lever is move forwards.

i usually find they don't move until the lever is about 1/4 the way forward, which then loses top speed.

 

Check the Rotostop clutch plates and check the blade boss bearings for noise when blade not engaged.

[Sawchip]

Just make sure the hydroshift cable is adjusted so that the mower is stationary when the lever is right back towards the operator, but moves as soon as the lever is move forwards.

i usually find they don't move until the lever is about 1/4 the way forward, which then loses top speed.

 

Check the Rotostop clutch plates and check the blade boss bearings for noise when blade not engaged.

 

Bottom end coming off for a sharpen and balance tomorrow so will look out for any boss bearing and clutch issue. The drive speed seems ok as it moves one click forward from stop position.

Is there a Recommended hydro oil change age Barrie ? this one is less than 2 seasons old .

[GardenKit]

To be honest I tend to leave hydrostatic gearboxes well alone as long as they are working OK and not leaking.

 

The change interval according to the book is one year, or 1000 hrs, which is a heck of a variation, and if they figure 1000 hrs is Ok then I reckon thats a bout a lifetime anyway.

 

If you do change it you may find it a pig to bleed.

[Sawchip]

To be honest I tend to leave hydrostatic gearboxes well alone as long as they are working OK and not leaking.

 

The change interval according to the book is one year, or 1000 hrs, which is a heck of a variation, and if they figure 1000 hrs is Ok then I reckon thats a bout a lifetime anyway.

 

If you do change it you may find it a pig to bleed.

 

Fine.. a sealed system at least can't get crapp from outside if its oil tight. Most auto boxes on cars these days seem to be "leave alone unless theres a problem or leak"

Thanks for your help Barrie

[widge34]

Probably going to purchase a Cobra M48SPS with the Subaru Robin engine. Will the engine revs be ok out of the box or will they need adjusting?

[Richard 1234]

Probably going to purchase a Cobra M48SPS with the Subaru Robin engine. Will the engine revs be ok out of the box or will they need adjusting?

 

Get the revs checked when you buy it.

No doubt they will be set fairly low.

I'd keep revs down for at least a few weeks if not the whole warranty period then after that I'd be turning it up!

[GardenKit]

Probably going to purchase a Cobra M48SPS with the Subaru Robin engine. Will the engine revs be ok out of the box or will they need adjusting?

Your dealer should make sure that the revs are correct when he PDI's the machine, so no need to worry.

[joe 44]

Hello after posting a problem earlier in this forum and receiving a helpful answer I was wondering if someone could help me again.

 

It concerns a Qualcast Suffolk Punch 35s a114 engine, after use when I pull the spark plug and look in the bore the piston is wet and shiny I assume this is oil as it does not evaporate if left awhile.

The engine doesn't smoke but the exhaust has a strong smell.

If it's all working fine shouldn't the bore be dry inside?

 

Recently I took the head off to clean the carbon and lap the valves when doing this I noticed the valves have a bit of play in the valve guides and the piston has slight play in the cylinder.

Could the piston rings or valves be letting oil past or could it be something simple like too much oil or poor quality oil, it has half a pint of sae30 oil from b&q would a better quality oil make any difference? The manual confirms this is the correct amount of oil,the cylinder is very smooth not a mark on it

 

Any help would be much appreciated.

 

Joe

[GardenKit]

I would say you have it sussed already Joe. Slack valve guides, slack piston. Both will cause oil to be passed into the upper cylinder, and your wet piston is proof that it is.

Surprised you are not choking on blue smoke though.

 

Not worth repairing IMO unless you want a challenge. You will need new valves, guides, piston, rings, rebore, gaskets.............££££££££

 

I would say just run it on, but cannot suggest this on the grounds of health and safety!

[joe 44]

Hi Gardenkit,

 

Thanks for the fast informative reply, regarding engine rebuild would just replacing the piston rings help I can get a set for £20.

Rebore and new piston does seem like a waste of time and money, the cylinder is very smooth has not been scored so I’m not sure if it needs all that however I don’t have much experience in that type of work, also I cant find new valves anywhere and wouldn't the valve guides need to be reamed and larger valves fitted? Definitely wouldn’t go down that route but would consider changing rings and valves.

 

On a side note how about fitting a new engine or a reconditioned old one, I’ve seen reconditioned ones on Ebay obviously a risk who knows what condition it would be in, and I've seen new Briggs horizontal engines but don’t know if fitting it would be possible.

 

Other than the engine the rest of the mower is in good condition cylinder has been reground recently and the shop that did it said there was plenty of life left in it and all the belts and roller are also good, the mower cuts nice and I know new cylinder mowers are out there just a shame really to bin it.

 

Once again thanks for the help it is much appreciated.