Husky 350 crank bearings

[dga3240]

My Husqvarna 350 has been a good saw for general farm use until it started racing intermittently when it got warm.

 

I've done a Google and the problem seems to be well known….Worn crank shaft bearings causing over heating and air getting in through the seals. MacGregor Industrial Supplies, Inverness, seem to agree with me and have quoted £140 + VAT to cure the problem.

 

My problem is, is it worth it? I see s/h 350's on Ebay for not much more than £200 - £300 and I've since bought a new 450 for not a lot more.

 

Anyone in the Highlands repairing these saws as a homer? The main problem appears to be splitting the body to get at the bearings. (A special tool is needed). Would it be worth getting McGregors to split it for me and attempting the repair myself? Or just sell it for parts?

[traktorz]

And you're sure the seals are the cause? Not just a common tank ventilation problem?

We've got the Jonsered equivalent CS2150 still going strong, so I'm curious to follow your problem and resolution. Personally, my approach would be to try taking the crankcase apart and to fix it myself as far as possible. It's a very good saw and does a good job for us.

[dga3240]

And you're sure the seals are the cause? Not just a common tank ventilation problem?

We've got the Jonsered equivalent CS2150 still going strong, so I'm curious to follow your problem and resolution. Personally, my approach would be to try taking the crankcase apart and to fix it myself as far as possible. It's a very good saw and does a good job for us.

 

No, I am not sure about the seals but I am as sure as i can be about the bearings.

 

This video shows how to check them and I read on another site that the movement causes the seals to fail and the saw to pull air which causes it to race when warm.

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qamK8Uv5rLE]How To Check Chainsaw Crankshaft Bearings For Wear - YouTube[/ame]

 

The problem to doing the repair myself is splitting the saw. Special tools are apparently required. Maybe there is someone in the Scottish Highlands who can do this cheaper than McGregors?? If I pay £140 for them to do it, what is the saw worth?

[traktorz]

Bearings worn out on the clutch side? or both? Having had a pair of old Jonsered 535 made in late eighties, that didn't show this wear, however those crankcases were made out of Magnesium. The 350/CS2150 crankcase is made of plastic, hence doesn't need to be split, which would ease the repair procedure positively.

 

Just curious what fuel you've been using? We were running the old Jonsered 535 on 3% oil mix, although at the time 2.5% was mentioned in the instruction book. Currently I'm mixing 2.5% (gives me a sloppy margin down to 2% recommended in the instruction books) and the oil is is a semi-synthetic (Texaco Motex 2T-X (API TC, JASO FC/FD, ISO-L-EGD, TISI)), with Aspen alkylat.

 

That YouTube clip was very illustrative, I have to check on our saws next time, but I hope not having this play in the bearings.

 

Anyway, looks like you're convinced new bearings needs to be replaced, and of course seals too, once the engine is taken apart. There's alot of things to remove on the saw, before coming down to the problematic area.

 

This is mentioned in the service manual for the 345/350 family, of which I've seen a swedish copy. I would strip the saw to minimum, and have the repair shop do the seals and bearings replace only. I would keep the cylinder in place to shield the interior during the transport though.

 

But very important before going further, is to check the status of the cylinder and piston. If the saw has already run lean, has that affected the moving internal parts as well? Also when opening the cylinder, remove charcoal accumulation on cylinder top and exhaust port, and replace the piston ring as well. Have you done a compression test already?

 

Our CS2150 has higher compression than our CS2152, which surprises me. So between these two saws, the CS2150 is the first choice, it's a bit lighter as well. The 350 equivalent is therefore in my mind worth servicing.

Edited December 9, 2013 by traktorz

[Eddy_t]

If you're going to replace the piston ring, you may as well replace the piston

 

 

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[spudulike]

The saw doesn't need the crankcases split as it is of non convential design. The crank case isn't vertically split making the job much easier.

 

The cylinder sits on an upper crank and spacer, Strange design but good for you. I believe the seal forms part of the Bearing.

[traktorz]

The page from the illustrated parts list, likely will give an idea on this job to do.

[spudulike]

There you go - a picture paints a thousand words:thumbup:

[dga3240]

Brilliant! I've even found a workshop manual! The man's right, no splitting involved.

 

Thanks guys!

[Johny Walker]

check out the dealers on here for a price,and get a new 1, sods law somthing else will go wrong