Stihl MS200t

[spudulike]

I tried to install new seal with a socket, now wish I had made up a special tool in the lathe.

 

New seal cracked, they are very fragile, have ordered another one.

 

How much play is OK in the main needle rollers, I can feel a very slight amount of play if I wiggle the clutch side of the crankcase.

 

I am assuming that any play is too much, and have ordered new bearings, is this wise or am I being a bit fussy?

H-A

 

As the Sex Pistols said - "Oh you silly thing, you've really gone and done it now":lol:

 

The bearings on the MS200T are like needle bearings but with much larger rollers that roll on the crank itself.

 

This type of bearing has a little play in it as part of its design and is different from roller bearings on larger saws where you have close to zero play and the ball bearings roll on an inner and outer race of the bearing.

 

Long and short....the clutch side usually knocks out first and is generally caused by over-tightening the chain.

 

I would only change the bearings (needs to split the crankcase) if they knock on idle but don't bother unless they are knocking.

 

Best way to see if they are knocking is to fire up the saw without the clutch fitted, let it idle and wearing a pair of thick gloves, push the crank in one direction and if the knocking goes.......

 

The in and out movement is "end float" and is normal for this type of construction.

[H-A]

As the Sex Pistols said - "Oh you silly thing, you've really gone and done it now":lol:

 

Thanks Spdulike:laugh1: , the bearings are not expensive so thought I would replace them anyway.

 

I do like to see the condition of the crank, piston and cylinder, so for the sake of a few screw I personally do a full strip down and clean.

 

I am glad the cylinder, piston and crank are in mint condition, makes the cost of new bearings and seals worthwhile.

 

Now waiting for the postman again.

 

H-A

[spudulike]

Note that the bearings go in with the plastic race retainer on the outside! If you fit them with the bearings the wrong way round, the crank will be clamped!

[H-A]

Note that the bearings go in with the plastic race retainer on the outside! If you fit them with the bearings the wrong way round, the crank will be clamped!

 

Thanks for the tip.

 

Is it worth warming up the crankcase halves as stated in the service manual for replacing the bearings, or will they just tap out and tap back in?

 

230 C is possible in the oven, but I don't want to burn the paint off.

 

H-A

[Rich2484]

never had to with a 200.

 

have with bigger saws.

[peatff]

Thanks for the tip.

 

Is it worth warming up the crankcase halves as stated in the service manual for replacing the bearings, or will they just tap out and tap back in?

 

It's always worth warming the crankcase to get new bearings in, just use a hot air gun to warm the immediate area and if you get it hot enough not to be able to touch it and put the bearings in the freezer for an hour before fitting them they will just drop into place without much persuasion. If you fit the bearings with the seals the wrong way round they will not get oiled from the mix either.

Edited September 29, 2013 by peatff

[H-A]

All done, bearings and seals went in easily, thanks for the heating advice. So many bits to put it back together, lots of different length screws.

 

Hope it was worth it, will test in the morning.

 

H-A

[spudulike]

All done, bearings and seals went in easily, thanks for the heating advice. So many bits to put it back together, lots of different length screws.

 

Hope it was worth it, will test in the morning.

 

H-A

 

Good luck with it, hope it sorts your issues out and starts making you money:thumbup:

[H-A]

It was worth the effort, tuned it in, now idles as it should.

 

Now when I back the idle screw off, it will stop.

 

Perfect now, very pleased.

 

This must be a common fault, with this saw.

 

H-A

[H-A]

Saw runs well, starts easily, no problems, so as I am forever tinkering thought I would replace the rings. Compression was between 150-160 psi.

 

People have said "don't mend it if it aint broke" but I was curious, for me it is all a learning process knowing what can be achieved.

 

Replaced rings, only takes 20 mins, ran it for 5 mins let it cool, compression now 165 psi, so could increase a tad, when bedded in.

 

Are rings considered service items, should a pro saw get new rings every year, or do people just run them till they are knackered?

 

H-A