what to do for the best!!!

[farmerjohn]

Hi, although I have not made many posts on arbtalk I have been a member for a year or so. This is my first post from scratch and there is a lot of info to give so you can hopefully give me some advice so please bear with me.

I am very interested in fire wooding and am looking to get into milling in a small way, mainly native hardwoods in small ish quantities as a sideline to my construction business to use for restoration works we complete on old properties / barn conversion. (This is the main of my work.)

 

I have about 7 tonne of oak butts (between 2’ and 3’6” please see below pic of the smallest on the trailer) and the odd ash, yew, sweet chestnut, cherry and splatted beach butt. I am going to take all of this lot to a local guy who is very close to me who has an old LT25 and I can labour on him removing planks and stacking etc.

 

I have recently made a bit of a purchase to make lighter work of the smaller diameter firewood we get (please see below.)

 

I have about 5 trees to off root that are about 40 – 50” diameter that are for milling so I am going to get a bigger saw. The problem is what size saw to get.

 

Because I have close, cost effective access to a mill any big timber will get sawn up on the mizer. I would like the option of cutting any smaller butts up to an absolute maximum of 18” diameter myselt with a chainsaw mill, I would almost certainly cut any timber I do myself into 10X10” sections and re-saw it into planks on the woodworker.

 

I was given an Alaskan type mill (not sure of the make, it is orange and has roller on the top that run along the top) that has a 36” bar on and I do not think it can be used with one much smaller due to the way to holds the bar. At present my biggest saw is a 455 rancher which I know is far too small for the mill, but I have to admit I really like the saw apart from the oiling problems I have encountered.

 

My questions are as follows:

 

1. is would something like a husky 372 or a MS440 be power full enough to do what I want on the mill running a 36” bar but strictly not using all of the cut available on the mill?

 

2. If yes to the above can I get a 36” bar to fit wither of the 2 saws above or am I going to have to go for a bigger saw?

 

3. Does it sound feasible / sensible to do the proposed and square up smaller butts with a chainsaw mill and re-saw on the PTO saw.

 

4. Any advice on how best to mill hardwoods (especially oak) with 3 and 5 star shakes is would be very much appreciated as my man mainly uses the mizer for re-sawing softwoods.

 

Many thanks for anyone who takes the time to read all of the above and give any advice.

 

John

[Eddy_t]

I would recommend a 390/660 minimum for that size bar, but ideally for the size of wood you might want a saw with an additional manual oil pump, such as an 050/1, 070/090, 075/6, 3120, 395 or 880

The older saws with the manual pumps can be picked up fairly cheap so you may be better off with with one of those

 

 

Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App

[Rob D]

1. is would something like a husky 372 or a MS440 be power full enough to do what I want on the mill running a 36” bar but strictly not using all of the cut available on the mill?

 

Not enough power - MS660,MS880 or Husky 395,3120

 

2. If yes to the above can I get a 36” bar to fit wither of the 2 saws above or am I going to have to go for a bigger saw?

 

Bigger saw

 

3. Does it sound feasible / sensible to do the proposed and square up smaller butts with a chainsaw mill and re-saw on the PTO saw.

 

Yep it's a great way of doing it - chainsaw mills really work best at quartering or halving a large log then re sawing it on something more efficient.

 

4. Any advice on how best to mill hardwoods (especially oak) with 3 and 5 star shakes is would be very much appreciated as my man mainly uses the mizer for re-sawing softwoods.

 

There's not a lot you can do. Try and chainsaw mill in line with the shake and then quarter saw. Try and avoid simple through sawing - too much movement in the finished planks.

 

Oak is a nice timber to saw with sharp tools.

[farmerjohn]

Hi Rob,

I have seen your website and i am going to place a order for a few bars and some chains very soon.

The main reason for my post is to try and work out what size saw i should buy, i would rather buy a smaller saw (72cc ish) as a 90cc saw would not get the use it should if owed by me and would almost be a 'waste' of a really good saw, but if it is the only option it is what i will have to get.

Another option which is a question directly for you, if i am only putting 4 square sides on 18" butts and small with a chainsaw mill then re-sawing on my pto saw, could i get a smaller mill from your good self that would run ok on a 72cc saw?

Regards, John

[agg221]

Hi Rob,

I would rather buy a smaller saw (72cc ish) as a 90cc saw would not get the use it should if owed by me and would almost be a 'waste' of a really good saw.

 

Not so much if you buy a secondhand saw. Firstly, an older saw has a poor power to weight ratio, so an 070/075/076 is not really a 'front line' saw any more, particularly not without a chainbrake. As such, milling is pretty much their only use. Secondly, saws of this type hold their value. If you use it relatively infrequently, it will sell for what you paid for it, so although you have your money tied up in the meantime, it is not 'wasted'.

 

Alec

[Coletti]

I may get shot down but I believe the makita dcs7901 wouldn't be a bad compromise on size and price? 80cc so should pull a 30" bar if I'm not mistaken?

 

 

Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App

[Eddy_t]

You'd be surprised how much you'd use the 90cc saw, it wouldn't be any less use than a 70cc saw, as I suggested get an older one with a manual pump, then on the odd occasion where you have a big tree to mill you can run a big bar with no problems, there are plenty on eBay, with 051's fetching £300 or less, if you buy a new 372/441 you're looking at paying best part of £700

 

 

Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App

[farmerjohn]

Coletti:

i would love one, but i am thinking of a second hand saw and they dont come up very often, only seen 2 on ebay since jan, and 1 of the 90cc ones, cant remember the model, it was still in it's box and it went for £400, prob should have had it, if the power and reliability is there i'm not bothered out the colour.

Edited September 8, 2013 by farmerjohn

[farmerjohn]

true, if i was going to go for a 90ish cc i am leaning towards something like a 064, old ish, but i think i can still get all parts, apparently best power to weight ratio for a big saw, though that does not bother me too much, and if i end up getting one it WILL get used. does anyone know if is there anything i should look out for on the 064?

[farmerjohn]

Not so much if you buy a secondhand saw. Firstly, an older saw has a poor power to weight ratio, so an 070/075/076 is not really a 'front line' saw any more, particularly not without a chainbrake. As such, milling is pretty much their only use. Secondly, saws of this type hold their value. If you use it relatively infrequently, it will sell for what you paid for it, so although you have your money tied up in the meantime, it is not 'wasted'.

 

Alec

 

I should have said, i am not buying a new saw for these jobs, it will be second hand, and i am also not up for getting one so old it is without a chain break as if it is there to be used i will use it for every job it can be used on and not keen on using a big saw like that without a break for anything other than milling.