Large Sycamore Tree with included bark - what are my options

[castlemonkey]

I was after some advice regarding a large mature sycamore tree that I have in my back garden. I have had it inspected by a tree surgeon and he pointed out to me a defect in the trunk of the tree which increases the risk of the tree failing in the future and suggested it was best to remove and replant due to the potential risk it posed to both my garden and my neighbours garden and property. I am reluctant to remove the tree as it is a feature of the garden and ideally I would like to retain the tree if it is safe to do so.

 

From what my tree surgeon said and from the research I have done through the internet, the sycamore is made up of two codominant stems with a tight V shaped union with signs of included bark between them but there appears to be no signs of cracking or decay at or around the join. The main trunk is near vertical some 45cm diameter and the other some 35cm diameter has grown at a slight lean to the southern light. The trunk at the base is some 65cm diameter with the union starting some 50cm off the ground. The included bark sections below the union are some 20-25cm long and 3cm wide on one side of the tree and 8cm on the other. The sycamore tree is at least some 15m high and has a crown diameter of a similar amount (15-18m). The tree is otherwise healthy, has a good shape, is in leaf, with little deadwood. No previous pruning has occurred to the tree it has been allowed to grow naturally.

 

The tree overhangs my two neighbours’ gardens/properties, and so as the landowner I understand I have some responsibility in ensuring that I reduce the risk that the tree poses. One neighbour’s house is some 20m from the tree, with the branches extending into their garden some 6m; the other neighbour is closer with their garage some 9m from the base of the tree although there is a drop in land levels of some 2m in-between. The crown of the tree extends to be roughly level with the edge of their garage.

 

I have attached photos of the tree showing its location, the 2 main trunks, and the included bark union from both sides.

 

I was wondering what was best to do with this sycamore tree.

 

From the photos is the diagnosis of included bark correct?

Is the tree safe / worth saving given its location, size, and defect?

If the tree is safe to retain what is my minimum requirements that I need to take to remove/limit my liability as landowner?

What are my best options with regards to pruning to limit the strain on the trunks?

Would it benefit / is it worth cabling or bracing the tree and if so what sort of cost is involved?

Given its current size and that it is some 50 years old already; how much bigger is this sycamore likely to grow?

 

I would welcome any advice that anyone can give.

 

Many Thanks.

[Jake Andrews]

Seems like a very rash decision too fell when it is an easily managed risk. If it's light your after then a reduction can give you a very short term fix. 1-2 years before she's thicker and denser than she is now due too epicormic growth. IMO the arborist you spoke and dealt with had the best idea of crown raising and crown thinning. As said before the thin will allow light through the canopy and reduce the wind sail of the tree. You'll be surprised what a difference the crown raise will do in terms of light as well. This will be classed as managing the risk in which you are aware of now however whilst the arborists are on site would it not be wise to brace there and then?.

 

If you remove this specimen now a newly planted tree will not be this size in 20 years time and I can't see much of a reason why this tree can't go on for another 15+ plus years with management. (That said without personally seeing the tree)

 

Happy decision making

 

Jake:thumbup1:

[NWTS]

Wow, some responses on here!

 

The tree really doesn't look to bad from the pics. If our surveyors recommended to clients to fell all sycamore trees with a union like that we would bankrupt huge amounts of companies.

 

Have a local consultant inspect the tree, a consultant will give an unbiased view of the tree.

 

I would love to here the results of a consultants recommendation if you get one, it shouldn't cost to much if you use a local one.

[Paul Jenks]

As has been said, a union like that in a sycamore is low risk. They don't let go very often.

I think your tree surgeon gave you a pragmatic set of options. Lifting will give you more light under the canopy, though may diminish privacy, depending on local conditions.

There certainly doesn't appear to be any safety issues with the tree.

If the tree is causing you issues now these will only be exacerbated as the tree grows, and management will cost more. Tree management is not cheap whether it's on-going or occasional one-off. And once you start down the path of management the impact on the health of the tree, perceived and delivered outcome and future management implications are all in the mix.

[Stubby]

Get rid. It's in a crap location, will only get worse as the years go on. Nip it in the bud now. Many replant another tree in a better location.

 

+ if you have a wood burner thats you set up for next winter ......

[castlemonkey]

Thanks for all the advice. I would prefer to retain the sycamore tree but to allow more light into my garden, and minimise the strain on the union and so lower any risk.

 

I can see the sense in crown reduction for cases of included bark and tight unions, but I’m slightly reluctant in taking this option if it is going to cause faster growth from the tree, the crown to thicken up leading to more shading than I now have and hence lead to ongoing reductions in the future.

My parents have a pollarded ash in their garden and the recurring fast growth on that has meant they have repeatedly had to have it reduced in size every 4-5 years with the cost that incurs, which is what I would prefer to avoid if possible.

 

So I would be inclined from what has been said to have it crown raised and thinned, but in doing so would this not make the tree more top heavy and hence put more strain on the union?

If crown thinning or raising occurred would there be excessive regrowth from the tree to compensate for what had been removed?

A crown raise would have little affect on privacy with regards to neighbours as the boundaries are screened with leylandii hedges some 3m high with one neighbour and unfortunately for me some 6m high with another, and growing into the crown of the sycamore. If these 6m leylandii were reduced in height by some 3-4m to clear the crown of the tree would this have any effect on the sycamore with regards to not sheltering the tree as much and hence exposing the sycamore to stronger winds?

 

Many Thanks

[Jake Andrews]

Although crown raising will make the tree more 'top heavy' this should almost be cancelled out with the crown thin. The idea behind a thin is to allow wind to pass through the canopy as opposed too hitting it like a sail.if done correctly the crown raise should not stimulate too much epicormic growth but you can never rule it out. Pro dominantly the growth will be from inaccurate pruning wounds. (Hard to get them 100%). I hope you get the result your after as long as you don't expect too much from the works being undertook. Dappled light from a crown thin is much more inviting,natural and adds character too the garden. Please post the results.

 

Jake:thumbup1:

[Le Sanglier]

Sooner or later you'll have to reduce it, thinning is a waste if time, within a growing season or so you'll have to do it again, all this blurb about dappled shade is hooey.

[daltontrees]

As this is the Homeowners Advice section I think we should all make an effort to provide a balanced view of what industry best practice would be for your tree. So far you have heard everything from 'why touch it?' to 'get rid of it'. This probably reflects that no-one has seen it in the flesh, as it were, and everyone is reaching slightly different conclusions based on what you have said and a few photos. There is no substitute for that, and for knowing local soils, history of this species in local climate and prevailing winds, what the prevailing wind direction is relative to plane of included bark, history of root disturbance etc.

 

Someone has already clarified, you don't have to reduce risk, you just have to keep it to acceptable levels. Personally I like the suggestion already made that you get an independent consultant who has no interest in how much any tree surgery or bracing work will cost, to assess the risks and to recommend what work, if any, is needed to bring the risk down to an acceptable level. The cost of the consultant could save you the cost of unnecessary tree work or the ongoing cost of works that are needed once you embark on a managmenet strategy of periodic pruning.

 

I don't wan to criticise your tree surgeon he sounds like he has tried to give you tailored advice. Coming onto this Forum you might encounter him here. Other people here would be reluctant to criticise his advice. If you are worried about the tree a couple of £00 would get independent advice from someone who can inspect the tree in context. I am sure your tree surgeon would be happy to price whatever specification for works your consultant then recommends. People on the Forum are well-meaning but are only making educated guesses without first-hand inspection.

[Le Sanglier]

As this is the Homeowners Advice section I think we should all make an effort to provide a balanced view of what industry best practice would be for your tree. So far you have heard everything from 'why touch it?' to 'get rid of it'. This probably reflects that no-one has seen it in the flesh, as it were, and everyone is reaching slightly different conclusions based on what you have said and a few photos. There is no substitute for that, and for knowing local soils, history of this species in local climate and prevailing winds, what the prevailing wind direction is relative to plane of included bark, history of root disturbance etc.

 

Someone has already clarified, you don't have to reduce risk, you just have to keep it to acceptable levels. Personally I like the suggestion already made that you get an independent consultant who has no interest in how much any tree surgery or bracing work will cost, to assess the risks and to recommend what work, if any, is needed to bring the risk down to an acceptable level. The cost of the consultant could save you the cost of unnecessary tree work or the ongoing cost of works that are needed once you embark on a managmenet strategy of periodic pruning.

 

I don't wan to criticise your tree surgeon he sounds like he has tried to give you tailored advice. Coming onto this Forum you might encounter him here. Other people here would be reluctant to criticise his advice. If you are worried about the tree a couple of £00 would get independent advice from someone who can inspect the tree in context. I am sure your tree surgeon would be happy to price whatever specification for works your consultant then recommends. People on the Forum are well-meaning but are only making educated guesses without first-hand inspection.

 

What's the point of him asking the questions and providing detailed photos on a homeowners advice forum if he's only going to get the response "pay for a consultant" I think that's exactly what he's trying to avoid.

It's not that complex really is it? Overgrown sycamore in corner of garden.

[Gary Prentice]

As this is the Homeowners Advice section I think we should all make an effort to provide a balanced view of what industry best practice would be for your tree. So far you have heard everything from 'why touch it?' to 'get rid of it'. This probably reflects that no-one has seen it in the flesh, as it were, and everyone is reaching slightly different conclusions based on what you have said and a few photos. There is no substitute for that, and for knowing local soils, history of this species in local climate and prevailing winds, what the prevailing wind direction is relative to plane of included bark, history of root disturbance etc.

 

Someone has already clarified, you don't have to reduce risk, you just have to keep it to acceptable levels. Personally I like the suggestion already made that you get an independent consultant who has no interest in how much any tree surgery or bracing work will cost, to assess the risks and to recommend what work, if any, is needed to bring the risk down to an acceptable level. The cost of the consultant could save you the cost of unnecessary tree work or the ongoing cost of works that are needed once you embark on a managmenet strategy of periodic pruning.

 

I don't wan to criticise your tree surgeon he sounds like he has tried to give you tailored advice. Coming onto this Forum you might encounter him here. Other people here would be reluctant to criticise his advice. If you are worried about the tree a couple of £00 would get independent advice from someone who can inspect the tree in context. I am sure your tree surgeon would be happy to price whatever specification for works your consultant then recommends. People on the Forum are well-meaning but are only making educated guesses without first-hand inspection.

 

Probably the best advice so far.