Smoky 880 bar

[Jonathan O'Leary]

Last year purchased an MS880 with 4ft bar, got the call from the shop few days later, got it, used it and it broke, few months later finally got it back, complete with new uprated oiler and fuel pump as the one fitted in the factory as knackered??? but that's another story.

 

Like most big saws its not used everyday, I knew when I got it the saw would be used maybe 10 days of the year on the big stuff, but better have and not need then need and not have. The original job I'd got the saw for was finished off with a 660 a mate lent me to get me out of trouble.

 

Saw sat in garage till 2 months ago, pulled her out drop a big Euc trunk, after few minutes of running smoke was pouring off the end of the bar, shut it down straight away fearing the chain would snap. The smoke is only coming from the top side tip of the bar, looks like a tight spot in the bar.

 

Has anyone had this before? Or do you think it could have been where the original oiler packed up and knackered the bar?

 

Any ideas would be great as I can't look at it anymore, really disheartened by it now.

[Stubby]

Does sound like a tight spot . Slacken the chain off and see if you can pull it round by hand without it trying to climb out at the point it smokes . If you cant pull it you can prize the rail apart with a flat bladed screw driver till the chain runs free .

[Rob D]

It sounds to me like:

 

You have the 47" Duromatic bar? It's the solid bar that usually comes with the saw. It has no sprocket nose - and that's the problem. The nose gets hot and the chain goes from feeling very tight to very slack.

 

Why do Stihl not do a 4ft sprocket nose? They do a 59" sprocket nose? It's crazy :confused1:

 

But this bar causes problems all the time on this saw - an older 070,090,075,076 with their slower revs it's no problem.

 

 

Get a 46" Sugihara instead!

 

 

 

[Rob D]

P.S the oiler went on my MS880 as well (14 months old once a fortnight use) so got the uprated oiler fitted - only £105-00+ :sneaky2:

[munky0211]

Have you used the saw since on any other kind of timber?if so,was there still the same problem?

 

 

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[Jonathan O'Leary]

Thanks for the reply guys.

 

The saw was brand new when I got it, ran it for 20 mins and it wouldn't cut thru 2ft of oak without stalling out. The first time I ran it when I got it home the section for the 2nd handle in the end of the bar fell out, plus paint was already showing signs of heat damage due to the oiler failing under load. After it failed to cut on the job I got it for took it back to the shop, they had it for 2 months, to be fair they did offer a replacement but i'd already sent serial number out to insurance to thought it wasn't worth the hassle or swapping them over, how long could it take. The saw was sent back to Stihl, stripped, reassembled after they found nothing wrong and then once it came back the same got sent back to them again.

 

All work was done under warranty, including uprated oil and fuel pump, but now I'm facing the choice of buying a new bar to fit as Sthil don't do 4ft roller nose, or keep opening up the end of my bar. Or do I take it back to shop again and see if I can get a new bar and chain under warranty as this one is junk?

 

After paying a huge amount of money for the thing in the first place makes my blood boil that its the most unusable amount of junk in standard form, surly the bar is not fit for purpose?

[waz77]

I had same prob with mine, guy at the saw shop said to run with the chain just hanging off the bottom of the bar slightly, seems much too slack when your used to the normal tension of a chain, but it runs no probs like that, also worth getting a bit of oil onto the chain by gentle running before you first start cutting cos if it runs fast and hot before the chains lubed up it starts sticking.

[mendiplogs]

I had same prob with mine, guy at the saw shop said to run with the chain just hanging off the bottom of the bar slightly, seems much too slack when your used to the normal tension of a chain, but it runs no probs like that, also worth getting a bit of oil onto the chain by gentle running before you first start cutting cos if it runs fast and hot before the chains lubed up it starts sticking.

 

Hi waz)rob is that the best way to run them slack mate and just run them up for a min for oil on bar thanks can I pull a oiler on so run 2 oilers thanks Jon

[Jonathan O'Leary]

Just sent Stihl a ranting mail asking one of their people to call me, 3 jobs its been on and let me down 3 times, that's a lot of money for no performance, tried running it slack and no difference, tight spot holds it so tight can't turn it by hand. We'll see what they say, offered to drop it up to them, their only in Camberley not far from me.

 

Will let you know what they say. Thanks guys for your replys, and thanks Waz, glad its not just my bar.

[Stubby]

I got a Husky 3120 .........Never had that at all . Its a bit of an antique but it gets the job done . 42" and 50" sprocket nosed bars . Trade it in !!