What cut to use.

[Mark Bolam]

OK, thanks. So why wouldn't you put a sink in? Or why would you? Does it make any difference? Side cuts would be parallel to direction of fall, presumably level with each other? The back cut would be at the same height as the side cuts? Does this cut work on any size of timber?

 

I reckon on very small stuff you'd struggle to get the cuts in, but Gerry Beranek has used it on some seriously big trees (6' dia +).

 

He does stress that directional control is a bit of a lottery.

[Spruce Pirate]

Thanks for the replies. I might give it a bash next time I find a heavy leaner to deal with. Don't think I'll start off on a 6 footer though, maybe something smaller. If its really small stuff do you really need these cuts (double v or CB)? Sharp saw and cut quick should work on really small stuff. If its big enough to worry about it jack-knifing then you should be able to get the saw in to complete the cuts I would hope. These type of cuts should only really be used when direction isn't an issue, ie the trees only going to fall one way anyway, so I wouldn't be worrying about that.

[mistahbenn]

So on another note, does anybody use a coos bay when dismantling, say on a horizontal heavy limb? I have never, I just do an undercut, taking out as much of the sides as poss, then a release cut behind the undercut to pop the limb off...

[Rich Rule]

I have Ben. I use my variation of the coos/triangle. Start on the far side underneath to about a 3rd. 45 ish degrees. Then move saw around to the side you are positioned, 3rd again. No gob.

 

You should then see or have an idea where to line the back cut by noting where the nose of the bar is on the first cut.

 

3 cuts and job done. I have dropped heavy laterals with it and leaning (with a very heavy head lean) stems on a Pop dismantle.

Edited May 15, 2013 by Rich Rule

[Spruce Pirate]

No, but a "V" undercut works well. Similar principle, instead of an ordinary undercut you cut in from both sides, taking out some of the side wood and the undercut to form a, well, V. Then top cut in line with the bottom cuts.

[Rich Rule]

No, but a "V" undercut works well. Similar principle, instead of an ordinary undercut you cut in from both sides, taking out some of the side wood and the undercut to form a, well, V. Then top cut in line with the bottom cuts.

 

Which is exactly what I described in the post above yours.

[woodland dweller]

Hi Brian, looks like stone pine to me !

[Spruce Pirate]

Which is exactly what I described in the post above yours.

 

Sorry , delay in replying, you must've posted while I was typing. I'm easily distracted, so you'd be surprised how long it can take me to type a few words.

[Rich Rule]

A bit like me then... Phat thumbs on the iPhone.

 

That and predictive text make a lot of my post look like nonsense until I read them back and make corrections.

[Mark Bolam]

Same as above (both!), but keep the top cut very slightly back from the two undercuts to avoid saw rip out.

 

Type of timber is pretty important.

 

I've seen Rich do it on a really heavy lateral on a pop and it worked a treat. Any other cut and I think the saw could not chase the back cut fast enough.