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Crane Felling Vid from Ground view/Training


MOG
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Hello

 

this is a Video from job the other day. i was just brought in for well messing round on ground. usually i climb but newer guy wanted to do it. this great Vid for learning and what happen and what the problems where. I let you put your own thoughts down and i will answer with mine, hope you learn something and enjoy it.

 

whole tree was finished by 2pm, some scary bits a end

 

thanks MOG

 

 

Didn't actually show that many picks to learn anything mate. Was a good job and video. I can suggest that chains are $hit for rigging limbs and stuff.

 

And the bit at the end, yeah that was an unnecessary risk. Its not like the tree was not safe to tie into, and just a few feet from the ground there. At the very least, if the guy wanted to hang in the crane for a while then he could have for 3/4 of the cut and then unclipped for the last part. As you know, once your saw is in then you're not supporting its weight, just your own, which shouldn't be too difficult. So, did somebody tell the new guy to do what he did?

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I just don't see why you would tie Into the hook? If I'm doing big lumps of timber off a stick then ill tie in then put a gob in then untie and finish off back cut on my strop line.

 

Was his strop not big enough to go round maybe? As someone said everyone's ok and went home fine :)

 

 

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some of my thoughts

 

we have 4 helmets and 1 headset for crane driver all built in with talk activated system.some likes the chainsaw too tho.

 

1. too much force on some limb pieces you can see them popping up. which is key in crane to get right as the fibres are the strongest in the vertical direction.

2. Chains too small for the very big stem

3. 2-3 years experienced climber has done a fair bit of crane work well i done maybe 6-8 with him so far.

4. tying in to crane for that final cut wasnt ideal but i wouldnt want him to be on the stem with that piece going off like it did.

5. chains tie on one side, only one chain on 3.2tn log

6. the chains had movement in them before full load shocked them into place. not good

 

At the end of the day is very easy to watch a video or mess about on the ground like I did and judge. but there is some things i would of done different. Peter idea is good but not very practical as the banking is steeper than in looks and the beech is leaning in wrong direction. (possible but take time to setup winch and safety line to stop the 4tn log roll).

 

The second to last piece i would of cut the ears of the wood for more room for chains (ideally bigger chains), cut deep notch in for chains and take the piece little bigger to account for the balance. these were my suggestions but ..... so then the two final pieces would be equal ish weight. all this done for crane tie point bar the final cut as RCO said.

 

was cool job and good for me to watch from ground as i am usually always in the tree. we will be discussing it all in detail at work over the next wk.

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some of my thoughts

 

4. tying in to crane for that final cut wasnt ideal but i wouldnt want him to be on the stem with that piece going off like it did.

 

 

The second to last piece i would of cut the ears of the wood for more room for chains (ideally bigger chains), cut deep notch in for chains and take the piece little bigger to account for the balance. these were my suggestions but ..... so then the two final pieces would be equal ish weight. all this done for crane tie point bar the final cut as RCO said.

 

Why not onto the stem for the point 4 you made?

 

I can understand your other comments just that makes me curious as I may have used hook to achieve most of the cut if gravity was real against me, then finished on the stem.

 

You say cut ears of wood for the chains. I get this but my question is what % into the wood do you cut in depth & down from the top (spp dependent) but just a rule of thumb? I ask coz I wonder sometimes on heavy bits that I want to get weighted near the end I use this & I just take an educated thought on all the variables that will hold it rather than shear the ears off with the added pressure of choking ect. Apologies if this don't make sense, the pic in my head dose..:blushing:

 

An enjoyable vid though & some good points raised & reasoned with too.:001_smile:

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yeah i was happier he was away from the log as it twisted and was unpredictable to where it went. but wasnt my call at end off the day, i think you mean. rule of thumb if chains slip alittle bit then they have a bit of play to slip too not half foot from the top to go.

 

i would say foot minimum from the top of the Log as rule of thumb if there is such a thing in tree work.

 

ideally he would put chains in with ears cut off and notch in for chains, thus giving more room for chains and better position and then cut foot or 2 lower than he did and be alot be for finishing cut on the stem. (makes sense in my head) and thats what i would of done in that situation.

 

thanks for your comments.

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yeah i was happier he was away from the log as it twisted and was unpredictable to where it went. but wasnt my call at end off the day, i think you mean. rule of thumb if chains slip alittle bit then they have a bit of play to slip too not half foot from the top to go.

 

i would say foot minimum from the top of the Log as rule of thumb if there is such a thing in tree work.

 

 

:laugh1: yea I agree rules of thumb in tree work ain't the best of partners but I do use them from time to time.

 

Thanks for reply on it, as I haven't done many Crane jobs but the ones I have keep me asking questions like yours gave me & good to get other perspectives:thumbup1:

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no worries danavan.

 

yeah mark thats because it wasnt static load, if it was static it would be no problem and also made the last piece alittle smaller too. the crane can handle thoses loads no problem, but the WORST thing you can do is have any dynamic/ lateral movement. which is the creaking in Blightly

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