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Husqvarna 2101xp


nantmoel
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Hi

 

Do anyone here know where I can purchase a new cylinder and piston set (complete with decompression valve) for a 2101XP Husky? There is nothing wrong with the saw just a bugger to pull start, weak arms! lol

 

Brian

 

Not sure it ever had a decomp valve . Big old beasty ! It will be in the U.S.A. if you can . Check on fleabay . Randy Duncan could help . Big respect to you just picking the bugger up !

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Mine doesn't have a decompression valve, I did swap the standard plastic handle for a stihl elastostart one I had lying around, doesn't hurt so much when it rips through your fingers, I can let you have a set of dumb bells might help ya weak arms lol

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I want a replacement cylinder with a decompression valve due to the strength needed to start the beast! I also have a 3120XP with a decompression valve and its a bit of piss to start. I will say that the 2101 starts on the second pull, it was our milling saw until I purchased the 3120XP, cracking saw.

 

Thanks for the replies.

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I want a replacement cylinder with a decompression valve due to the strength needed to start the beast! I also have a 3120XP with a decompression valve and its a bit of piss to start. I will say that the 2101 starts on the second pull, it was our milling saw until I purchased the 3120XP, cracking saw.

 

Thanks for the replies.

 

The reason modern saws start easier is partly down to the decomp but is also down to the fact the modern coils have built in advance in their electronics.

 

When the saw is started, the ignition timing is only slightly advanced on newer machines whereas on older machines, they have a single state of advance that is a compromise between good top end speed and ease of start.

 

If the older saw is started without gusto, the piston will come up to near top dead centre and on ignition, will get thrown backward down the bore taking your fingers with it!

 

I usually find a stout grip and a bloody fast drop start gets the bigger saws going!

 

The 3120 will have 4-5 points of advance in its ignition curve - the 2101 will probably be set to something like 25 degrees advance - a decomp will help but it will still kick a fair bit more than the 3120XP!

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I'm glad you said about dropping the saw to start. A big no no on assessments but needs must. I have really hurt my shoulder trying to start a 088 before. Hurts like hell and made me chinch for a few days picking timber up.

 

A quick drop is the answer on older saws. Unless there is a 6 foot bar on the end of it. Then no drop, just hold onto the starter and let gravity do the work :lol:

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I'm glad you said about dropping the saw to start. A big no no on assessments but needs must. I have really hurt my shoulder trying to start a 088 before. Hurts like hell and made me chinch for a few days picking timber up.

 

A quick drop is the answer on older saws. Unless there is a 6 foot bar on the end of it. Then no drop, just hold onto the starter and let gravity do the work :lol:

 

I've had a few older saws - 920 Jonnie, Husky 181, Husky 298 and all took a bit of a pull and I know it is frowned upon and probably for good reason but a bloody good drop start is sometimes the less painful way of getting one of these saws fired up - especially if the state is a bit dubious!

 

Just my own opinion and a 3' bar plus makes it almost impossible so a ground start and busted fingers is the only option!

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A 2100 cd just went for £440 on eBay and half a one requiring pot and piston i think sold for over £100. I keep meaning to drag mine out the garage and sell it. If you read the spec for it, says you can put a 60" bar on it, would not like to use that, the 36" I have on mine is enough lol

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