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Rabbit Hutches


harvey b davison
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I'd make a frame for hutches out of 2x2 feather edge back and sides marine ply the top and felt it and the front make two doors out of 1x1 and chicken wire one door and marine ply the other with a run I won't use 1x1 to make frame and chicken wire the lot. As for price materials plus an hourly rate..

 

Never some it before others may have other ideas I'm sure.

 

There not that much new so prob wouldn't entertain it as its not an earner!

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I'd make a frame for hutches out of 2x2 feather edge back and sides marine ply the top and felt it and the front make two doors out of 1x1 and chicken wire one door and marine ply the other with a run I won't use 1x1 to make frame and chicken wire the lot. As for price materials plus an hourly rate..

 

Never some it before others may have other ideas I'm sure.

 

There not that much new so prob wouldn't entertain it as its not an earner!

 

why marine ply? theres no difference bettwen wpb ply and marine ply other than

marine ply glue as the name states will withstand salt water,so unless it's near or in the sea don't bother. Price? as much as you can get :lol:

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why marine ply? theres no difference bettwen wpb ply and marine ply other than

marine ply glue as the name states will withstand salt water,so unless it's near or in the sea don't bother. Price? as much as you can get :lol:

 

Marine ply is for any external or internal use where water may be an issuse. Does not soley have to be "salt water"

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Marine ply is for any external or internal use where water may be an issuse. Does not soley have to be "salt water"

 

WPB ply is waterproof and boil proof ply, Marine ply glue will withstand

the effect of saltwater,the same wood is used in both just the glue is different,

you are welcomed to use Marine ply but at twice the cost,as long as you don't

use shuttering ply or OSB.

With 30 odd years as a carpenter/plant operator and any spare timein the last few years as an NVQ assessor on plant operators and carpenters.

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Normally i use ply, top and bottom and tongue and groove for sides and back, t & g door to sleep compartment and a frame and mesh door on run side. Just wondered if any body used any thing else. And i'm crap at pricing jobs like these. Them in pet shops look like they last a month at most and cost a fortune, yet when i mention a half decent price, people tend to run to pet shop.

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Normally i use ply, top and bottom and tongue and groove for sides and back, t & g door to sleep compartment and a frame and mesh door on run side. Just wondered if any body used any thing else. And i'm crap at pricing jobs like these. Them in pet shops look like they last a month at most and cost a fortune, yet when i mention a half decent price, people tend to run to pet shop.

 

I whole heartedly agree and I have been there, but customers think you

will be cheaper than pet shops ... you can't compete with them on the price

you have to push that they are made of better quality material,it can be done

it has taken me years to build up my buisness in animal housing and I know you won't make enough to cover you'r time on a one off but the more you make

the faster you get. Good luck.

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Are the runs to be connected to the hutches? If so, it would be handy to attach them with either hook 'n' hasps on both side or else hinged to one side and hasped on the other side.

 

The hutch should have access to both sides via vertical hinged frontages, joining in the middle is handy. This allows for the daily cleaning of the enclosed sleeping area and sheltered resting area.

 

Many hutches have a static wire fronted door to the rest area. But since there are also going to be runs. It would help if the rest area had a way of partially closing entry into the hutch. This way, the run can be cleared/cleaned, without those cute critters running around your feet, (nibbling the shoe laces).

 

I know people with larger gardens and rabbits, that never mow the grass. They just have a simple rabbit run or two. These are made of batten & rabbit mesh:

http://www.boddingtons-ltd.com/acatalog/Rabbit-Fencing-Wire-Netting-Mesh.html?gclid=CLCD8_mNuLYCFcjKtAodkVMAnw

 

approx. 450mm high x 2m square per rabbit or pair thereof. And as the grass is nibbled down to the desired grass length, the runs are gently moved to the next bit of garden. Being only a couple of metres in size, enables the runs to be picked up a few cm. off the ground and moved, while the rabbit/s hop along inside. The run's weight is enough to prevent them being lifted by the grazing balls of fluff, yet light enough to easily be moved by one adult or two young children. And because of the squat dimensions and mesh top & sides, very windy days are not a problem.

 

And when the garden is pristine and the cute bunnies big enough. Some of the owners and bunnies have a meal together; but some leave the table a little fatter and some a lot thinner. (This didn't happen when the children were very young, as the nibblers had names.)

Edited by TGB
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