Stihl MS 660 oiler being stingy

[morten]

The oiler on my two year old MS 660 is being a bit stingy with the oil.

 

This is happening on several different bars, which rules out dirt etc in the oiler hole on the bar. I have turned up the oiler to full, but still, it only dispenses about 1/3 tank of oil for 1 tank of fuel.

 

For general use it is OK, but it worries me when using the saw for milling (Alaskan). The bar is getting hot, and I don't think it does much good for the chain, either.

 

Any ideas about what the cause could be, and what to look for when diagnosing the problem?

 

Possibly, I should just bite the bullet, and change the oiler to a high-output oiler (PN 1122 640 3201, I think), which would be good anyway for milling with long bars (currently use 25", 30" and 42" for milling).

 

However, if the problem lies elsewhere, I'd rather fix the cause of the problem.

[Rich2484]

Could be partial blocked oil filter or breather. Clean around the bar stud. Rinse the tank out well with petrol. Put some in it and shake the saw before emptying it then add clean fuel and run it up and see of fuel pours from oiler hole.

[Pete Mctree]

The high output oiler makes all the difference. Best option in my opinion

[morten]

Could be partial blocked oil filter or breather. Clean around the bar stud. Rinse the tank out well with petrol. Put some in it and shake the saw before emptying it then add clean fuel and run it up and see of fuel pours from oiler hole.

 

Do you mean me to start up the saw without bar/chain/side cover and watch the oil pouring out? Difficult to judge whether it is the proper amount, though. It is oiling, just not enough.

 

Where do I find the oil tank breather?

 

Guess I should hava a look in the service manual, but I feel lazy today (whole day spent milling spruce).

Edited March 9, 2013 by morten

[Rich2484]

Ok. First clan out the filter. Could either blow back down the oil pipe and then wash the tank out with fuel. Then run the saw with clean fuel in the oil tank and it may flush the pipes and pump out.

 

There is a valve on the tank that you could check over, its next to the bar studs. You need to check the parts list or service manual for this one. But it's there.

 

If the oil filter is bunged up it will struggle with getting enough oil out to the bar. The only real way is to remove the bar and run saw see how much comes out then clean it all out and do it again and see if it improves, if you don't see an improvement then just use the saw for some light work and see how much oil is left in the tank after.

[GardenKit]

Check that the pump is being driven properly. The drive arm is friction frip on the worm gear. They do become worn and loose, losingsome drive.

 

The pumps can also block with a little plug of sawdust in the neck of the in pipe, take the pump off and blow it through backwards whilst turning the pump element. Do this over a clean sheet of paper and you may see the sawdust plug come out.

[morten]

Thanks guys. If I find the cause of the oiling problem, I'll post back the info in this thread

[canoehead]

hi morten, i posted the same problem last week. my saw is now in pieces on the kitchen table. finally managed to get hold of sthil special tool no.1 (the plastic dog bone thingy (technical term) for tiny dogs) to shove, or rather carefully insert into the plug hole, so i can remove the clutch. have a look at the reply spud posted. alec had the same issue.

 

(i like garden kits idea)

 

rick

[18 stoner]

Morten, has this only just started happening or has it always been reluctant with the oil, it wasnt made clear?

 

If its only just happened recently, you've got some good cleaning advice to follow above.

 

If its always been like it and if, as you mention you intend milling with it, you need the bigger pump as Mr McTree says.

 

There are different output pumps. The thought Stihl had was that the UK saws would be cutting predominantly hardwoods, therefore shorter bars would be more common and needing less oil. Some of the west coast US and the AUS machines had the bigger output pump as standard, as the thinking was they would run bigger bars more often.

 

The complete pump (AUS) is 1122 640 3201. If you dont want to buy the complete pump, you could strip your standard pump and fit piston 1122 647 0602 and control bolt 1128 647 4802

 

I'm only a dumb cutter and not as upto speed as the other guys, but hope my wee input may help a little.

[spudulike]

The oil tank breather is to be found behind the stainless plate where the bar pushes on to - the one in my pic shows a blockage being pushed out - small round thing with a little turd of woodchip coming out!

 

You can blow through it with a soft rubber tube, blast some cleaner through it or knock it in to the oil tank by driving it out and just soaking it or put it in a US bath.

 

Richs tips are the laymans first shot at it, Gardenkits are the OMG, "it is still rubbish" option - the clutch does need to come off but the advice on worm drive pinion arms and oil pumps is spot on.

 

Pumps can wear with age and on some, do lose pumping action.