Big Snatch

[codz]

Hi, thanks for replying.

I have never put the rope far up the stem, i would need to try it to see, not doubting you, I just get it when I do it.

I am not convinced in my head

On the video, it took quite a pull to get it over, I can see that by the stem moving.

I have never worked with big gum so I don't know how it reacts hinge wise, I just feel if it went over slower it wouldn't of built up so much force.

I understand it's not nice having your work criticised, especially by folk who weren't there .

I should of considered this when I made my original comments, I never and unfortunately it has put a sour feel to this thread.

Long story short, you guys tried it and it never worked, what would you do next time with the same rope to give it a better chance of success?

 

Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App

 

We had to make sure the log was not going to topple prior to the climber exiting the tree, you know, safety and all that crap, this meant a pretty fat hinge. We would normally put a scarf cut about 1/2 - 2/3 the depth of the log to allow the weight of the piece to drag it over. There is still enough log and rope left to try another log of similar weight, I have a few ideas.

[High Scale]

It was 46 degrees on the first day of that removal!, I might have a bit of footage.

 

Rather you than me!

 

I would be a husk within minutes.

[Stephen Blair]

We had to make sure the log was not going to topple prior to the climber exiting the tree, you know, safety and all that crap, this meant a pretty fat hinge. We would normally put a scarf cut about 1/2 - 2/3 the depth of the log to allow the weight of the piece to drag it over. There is still enough log and rope left to try another log of similar weight, I have a few ideas.

 

Would you agree then that the big hinge contributed to the large momentum of the log?

Next time maybe a tag line behind aswell to hold it in place to allow more cutting and safety for the descending climber.

It's hard to make out,I don't think the rope snapped at the shackle ,

where exactly did the rope snap?

Thanks

 

 

 

Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App

[codz]

Would you agree then that the big hinge contributed to the large momentum of the log?

Next time maybe a tag line behind aswell to hold it in place to allow more cutting and safety for the descending climber.

It's hard to make out,I don't think the rope snapped at the shackle ,

where exactly did the rope snap?

Thanks

 

 

 

Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App

 

Me giving the Cruiser **** to snap the log probably did increase the loads however I dont think it was the straw that broke the camels back.

The piece of rope remaining in the tree shows us that the rope broke at the shackle, I believe it snapped when we ran out of elasticity.

[Stephen Blair]

Haha, land cruiser power!!

 

Ok it snapped at the shackle, that's good, because if it didn't I would of left me scratching my head:001_rolleyes:

 

I have always wanted to try running a rope right up the back of the tree to the top and see is the top could be controlled , there would need to be a big hinge, so assisting it over with your cruiser would be cool:biggrin:

 

The rope would be susceptible to bend radius, so a little roundish groove cut into the back cut would help this

[RC0]

FWIW. A couple of times in the past where there's been doubt, we've double over a line in the middle and worked it as one. We use a third line to join all 3 parts together and thus keep the doubled line equalized; the groundworker obviously controls the doubled line by holding the 3rd line. There must be enough distance between where the 3 parts join together to where the trunk wraps begin to allow the severed log to touch down.....even though the shock load is over by that stage. I still wouldn't mess with a 3t log on a real job, but if I had a wager on it, that's how I'd set up the rigging line.

[mistahbenn]

Ria's looking like a proper little lady mate

[RopeKnight]

FWIW. A couple of times in the past where there's been doubt, we've double over a line in the middle and worked it as one. We use a third line to join all 3 parts together and thus keep the doubled line equalized; the groundworker obviously controls the doubled line by holding the 3rd line. There must be enough distance between where the 3 parts join together to where the trunk wraps begin to allow the severed log to touch down.....even though the shock load is over by that stage. I still wouldn't mess with a 3t log on a real job, but if I had a wager on it, that's how I'd set up the rigging line.

 

Thanks for sharing! Brilliant.

[codz]

FWIW. A couple of times in the past where there's been doubt, we've double over a line in the middle and worked it as one. We use a third line to join all 3 parts together and thus keep the doubled line equalized; the groundworker obviously controls the doubled line by holding the 3rd line. There must be enough distance between where the 3 parts join together to where the trunk wraps begin to allow the severed log to touch down.....even though the shock load is over by that stage. I still wouldn't mess with a 3t log on a real job, but if I had a wager on it, that's how I'd set up the rigging line.

 

I think the strength loss would be similar to our set up or worse. that first bight would reduce the strength dramatically, and what is worse is that it is rope on rope. A good option in this situation is to incorporate a shackle to eliminate rope on rope, I will post a pic shortly. There a much stronger ways of attaching the log if you were to use 2 ropes. 2 splices attached to the shackle and sling we used would be a good option.

 

That 40mm we used was hard enough to handle as it was even with 2 of us in the tree. A 60mm rope would be around double the strength and easier to handle than the doubled 40mm.

[RC0]

I think the strength loss would be similar to our set up or worse. that first bight would reduce the strength dramatically, and what is worse is that it is rope on rope. A good option in this situation is to incorporate a shackle to eliminate rope on rope, I will post a pic shortly.

 

Cody I only used that particular knot in the photo so it was easy to see that it was all one line. I'd use a clove in real life, so long as its secure. Way stronger, without the bite. And a 3 strand works similar to rope-on rope anyway, where there's a bite or a bend i.e. 3-strands. Where they run through the shackle also, they'll near always run side by side in the bow, no cross-over.

There a much stronger ways of attaching the log if you were to use 2 ropes. 2 splices attached to the shackle and sling we used would be a good option.

 

Well of course there are, but thats not the point, you only had one line in the video, that's what I'm going one.

 

That 40mm we used was hard enough to handle as it was even with 2 of us in the tree. A 60mm rope would be around double the strength and easier to handle than the doubled 40mm.

 

Absolutely, and I dont intend to be double-roping a 40mm rope any time soon either. Again, my point was to show an example of how to potentially increase your safety factor with a limited amount of hardware, while offering an alternative to the configuration of that 40mm you had there in the video. Not trying to compete with or undermine you, just sharing something that has worked in the past for me.