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log burner not producing much heat?


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Might seem a bit odd, but I presume you're not expecting to get 5kW out of a 5kW multifuel stove.

Those figures are normally based upon burning anthracite,

so burning wood would give say 2.5-3 kW?

My Aarrow stove (Stratford 90) actually says ( from memory) 30kW burning Anthracite.

 

Also with wood at approx. 3.5-4 kWh per kilogram,

a sustained 5kW would require you to be burning just under 2 kg per hour.

 

HI TOM your right in what you say there a 5kw stove will give 5kw running flat out thats no good at all you need to seat there keep putting logs on and there small night mere we have 16kw euro heat stove it very good all round it will run 12kw very all the best jon

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Yes you can insulate a retrofit liner. Take the bird cage off and it should be attached to the liner with a jubilee clip. Pour vermiculite down the sides making sure non goes down the liner. Keep moving the liner to get the insulation to fill the voids until you can get no more in. Replace the bird cage.

 

:dito:

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Is your stove a multi burner- two vents or single fuel- one vent ?

Are you using the right vent ?

 

Top vent for wood, and bottom vent for coal.

 

I have a multi burner. But can only get the logs burning using the lower vent open. If I shut the bottom an leave the top open the fire doesn't really roar and burn as hot. Can you help. ?ImageUploadedByTapatalk1357329229.385744.jpg.21274dbe073adaf5e7bfe0752da2bc7e.jpg

 

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1357329290.727504.jpg.de59315be987dd3f4d26b99768149eb0.jpg

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I have a multi burner. But can only get the logs burning using the lower vent open. If I shut the bottom an leave the top open the fire doesn't really roar and burn as hot. Can you help. ?[ATTACH]109619[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH]109620[/ATTACH]

 

HI MATE whats the wood is it seasoned and are the log too large jon :thumbup:

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Hazzygawa - not knocking your stove mate - but that's a really old fashioned design, and to be honest - it will be completely outperformed by a modern efficient design, with the secondary air usually being preheated and introduced over the top of the fire and down the glass at the front. You don't really want it roaring - if it is then it's probably got far too much draught going through it, and woofing half the heat straight up the chimney. What we generally aim for is a brisk fire to get everything going - many stoves will benefit from having the door cracked open while doing this. Once everything is nicely alight and the stove and flue are getting hotter, the door can be closed and the fire regulated by using the secondary air control alone - with the primary completely closed. In most cases the primary will be redundant anyway as it will be covered by the ash you've allowed to build up in the bottom of the stove. The result is gently rolling flames that sort of hover in the firebox, or reach downwards from the top - it's basically the woodgas coming off and igniting. You have a much lower airflow through the stove, and much more heat absorbed by the body of the stove rather than going up the flue in a roar.

 

Just a note on flue liners - there are ones available in 316 and 904 grade stainless. 904 is more resistant to corrosion and is advisable for boiler stoves or when using smokeless fuels regularly. However - a good quality 316 liner will often outlast a cheap 904 one - and I've seen 316 in pieces sitting on the register plate after less than three years on a boiler stove burning smokeless all the time!

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