Silly question???

[Bewarethemoon]

I'm sure this will sound stupid to the more experienced climbers out there but there's something that's been bugging me since I read it in a post a few days ago. It was in a thread regarding Friction Hitches and someone mentioned (I'm guessing purely to justify the use of simple knots such as the Prussik) that they knew experienced climbers who still used both ends of the rope.

 

My question is what's wrong with this technique or why is it seen as outdated? I'm new to climbing with only around 6 months recreational climbing experience and I've been climbing DRT using both ends of the climbing line, aswell as using a strop with rope grab.

 

I don't ask to be confrontational but purely out of curiosity as to wether there's something I'm missing?

 

Any help or advice would be much appreciated! Thanks Daniel.

[Le Sanglier]

Nothing wrong, infact we were taught to do it that way at college in the early 90s.

[Bewarethemoon]

There's nothing wrong with the technique, it's just that it can lead to kinks and twists in the rope, as well as it being a pain in the bum hauling up the end of your rope. Also, if you keep the other end of your rope attached to your harness ready to use, you create a big loop beneath you that can easily get caught on branches and stubs, or catch a falling piece of timber, potentially pulling on you.

 

That makes sense. What are the alternatives to using the other end? Just spliced end and strop?

[Alinicoll]

There's nothing wrong with the technique, it's just that it can lead to kinks and twists in the rope, as well as it being a pain in the bum hauling up the end of your rope. Also, if you keep the other end of your rope attached to your harness ready to use, you create a big loop beneath you that can easily get caught on branches and stubs, or catch a falling piece of timber, potentially pulling on you.

 

What he said.

 

All I`d add is that I keep a spare prussik on my harness so that should I want to use both ends the option is there. It`s a good habit for rescue purposes to keep a spare prussik anyway.

[Steve Bullman]

Nothing wrong, infact we were taught to do it that way at college in the early 90s.

 

 

Thats 20 years ago

 

Times have moved on and so have techniques! There are loads of reasons not to use it, most of which were mentioned above, but mostly for me its just slow and tedious. I do use it occassionally.....its handy to have in the 'kit bag' so to speak, but for generally climbing really unnecessary, especially if you are using a secondary lanyard anyway.

[Bewarethemoon]

Thats 20 years ago

 

Times have moved on and so have techniques! There are loads of reasons not to use it, most of which were mentioned above, but mostly for me its just slow and tedious. I do use it occassionally.....its handy to have in the 'kit bag' so to speak, but for generally climbing really unnecessary, especially if you are using a secondary lanyard anyway.

 

OK. So what I'm getting is that it's best to concentrate on using one end in conjuction with my flip line, without relying to heavily on my other end. Sorry if it seems I'm being pedantic but I don't want to fall into bad habits.

[Le Sanglier]

Thats 20 years ago

 

Times have moved on and so have techniques! There are loads of reasons not to use it, most of which were mentioned above, but mostly for me its just slow and tedious. I do use it occassionally.....its handy to have in the 'kit bag' so to speak, but for generally climbing really unnecessary, especially if you are using a secondary lanyard anyway.

 

Well pardon me! I'll warm up the brontosaurus and ride off in a huff;

I figure the guy asked if there was anything wrong with it. ie is it dangerous or bad practice, the answer was no it is not.

 

(FTR I use a flipline as a second line)

[Frankie Lawrence]

I've never got why colleges still teach it... Or they did 2 years ish ago when I did mine you could also have a second length of rope so 10 m to give you more positioning if you really need it that gets rid off the big loop in your line to stop the snagging but your harness will be a bit cluttered....

[Alinicoll]

OK. So what I'm getting is that it's best to concentrate on using one end in conjuction with my flip line, without relying to heavily on my other end. Sorry if it seems I'm being pedantic but I don't want to fall into bad habits.

 

I would suggest that for most trees a single line and lanyard is fine. It will make you climb differently. However, do things at your own pace.

[caledonian bob]

I just use a second rope which is 8m long, works well for me.