Seeking advice on pulling tree with tractor...

[C.J]

Ag tyres are optimised for doing least damage to the crop while travelling forward which means rotating in the direction were the tyre is self cleaning.CORRECT

If you want maximum traction then reverse will give you more.INCORRECT

 

Why do you think it is better to reverse out when stuck rather than carry on going forward..

Because the rear wheels will be on better ground.

[renewablejohn]

Because the rear wheels will be on better ground.

 

 

Sorry but you cant teach an old dog new tricks. In the old days when tractors ploughed with one wheel in the furrow it was standard practice to reverse the tyre direction on the wheel in the furrow to give better grip on the pulling wheel.

[tree monkey]

Sorry but you cant teach an old dog new tricks. In the old days when tractors ploughed with one wheel in the furrow it was standard practice to reverse the tyre direction on the wheel in the furrow to give better grip on the pulling wheel.

 

ive felled trees pulled in reverse by tractors and a merlo telehandler and they grip fine

i use a marlow 16mm rope attached to the tree high up with a timber hitch and onto the tractor with a loop into the pin.

worked fine

Ive also used my transit to help them over too i just made the god slightly deeper it seemed to help for me

[tim berman]

You could use a Trewhella clamp shackled to a nylon strop to choker the tree. This will take up to 12mm steel rope and the rope can be set to any length you want. We often use 10mm steel rope while pulling over big edge trees skylining. If you're not sure, batter in a couple of wedges even a 10 tonne bottle jack would surprise you what it'd put over on its own! A combination of 2 or 3 of these systems should pretty much guarantee any tree to go the right way.

[difflock]

(i) The reason for generally reversing a bogged/stuck vehicle out is that it requires less force=traction to move the wheels back along the already formed wheel ruts, than to attempt to bulldoze on through fresh ground.

Plus it can be assumed that the ground behind is firmer than the ground in front.

(ii) My experience of Ag tractors is limited to the 70's and 80's, however I am still sure that any ag tractor (from that period) will have a selection of lower forward gears than reverse gears (shuttle transmissions excepted)

Reason being because of less reverse gears, nominally 1 reverse to 3 or 4 forward, reverse has to be a useful comprimise.

I know that with the DB1490 reverse falls between 1st and 2nd in terms of ratio.

(iii)

Regarding the ploughing, Dad ploughed with a 990 2WD, I do not recall that he reversed the tread pattern of one tyre, though he had them both water ballasted.

The counter-intutive idea might have been to even the traction between the 2 tyres, since the one in the furrow has generally a better bottom to grip, reduce its effectivness to match the one on the sod, therefore equalizing wheel-slip. Otherwise the tractor would be "crabbing", or wanting to, in the absence of application of the diff lock.

I just made that theory up btw, furthur reasarch is now required.

Gibber

mutter

& twitch

[C.J]

(i) The reason for generally reversing a bogged/stuck vehicle out is that it requires less force=traction to move the wheels back along the already formed wheel ruts, than to attempt to bulldoze on through fresh ground.

Plus it can be assumed that the ground behind is firmer than the ground in front.

(ii) My experience of Ag tractors is limited to the 70's and 80's, however I am still sure that any ag tractor (from that period) will have a selection of lower forward gears than reverse gears (shuttle transmissions excepted)

Reason being because of less reverse gears, nominally 1 reverse to 3 or 4 forward, reverse has to be a useful comprimise.

I know that with the DB1490 reverse falls between 1st and 2nd in terms of ratio.

(iii)

Regarding the ploughing, Dad ploughed with a 990 2WD, I do not recall that he reversed the tread pattern of one tyre, though he had them both water ballasted.

The counter-intutive idea might have been to even the traction between the 2 tyres, since the one in the furrow has generally a better bottom to grip, reduce its effectivness to match the one on the sod, therefore equalizing wheel-slip. Otherwise the tractor would be "crabbing", or wanting to, in the absence of application of the diff lock.

I just made that theory up btw, furthur reasarch is now required.

Gibber

mutter

& twitch

 

Exactly what I was about to write.

[renewablejohn]

Just some figures to mull over.

 

http://www.kwf-online.de/deutsch/pruef/pruefergebnisse/aasm/forstspezialschlepper/4295_06e.pdf

 

And where is the winch located on the WF Trac ??

[difflock]

Well derp!

on the front:001_rolleyes:

cos the crane is on the back

to better load attatched trailers (my reason for buying the MB Trac btw)

I note no blade on the front, but assume sufficient anchorage available at the rear from the blade and/or crane.

This unit is optimised for forward travel pulling a laden trailer.

Not optimised for winching.

the winch may be as much for self recovery, (though I note double drum) another good reason to keep it on the front,

* it also acts as a needed counterweight that is not a dead weight*.

I can only surmise.

Since I did not bother reading the figures this was a purely qualatitive excercise.

Though I noted sommat about front axle lift. (& see*)

Edited December 28, 2012 by difflock

[renewablejohn]

Whats the point in providing figures if you dont read them.

 

Skidding forwards 115KN

Skidding backwards 126KN

[HCR]

Am I misreading it? I couldn't see any reference to forward v reverse pulling power, just various figures for front axle lift tendency (which will all be measured when going forwards).