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Checking the chain brake


Steve999
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Have you guys ever had kick back, just wondering how quick the inertia mechanism kicks in. My instructor demonstrated kick back but don't think the inertia mech kicked in, he just caught it.

I like the look of the Husky with front and rear inertia break, looks good for us amateurs.

 

I was made to make the saw kick back when i was being trained for my cs30, was told it will help me get more of a understanding about kick back,

 

and i must say it did help, ive had the inertia kick in while snedding up some conifer in the past when i had just started in this game, happens pretty fast, you would assume you accidently put the chain break on

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, ive had the inertia kick in while snedding up some conifer in the past when i had just started in this game, happens pretty fast, you would assume you accidently put the chain break on

 

that's a good description :001_smile:

 

I find that most of the time it's when pushing up a hairy softwood (gnarly sruce probably worst) and you'll catch a branch you can't see.

 

Shorter bars generally tend to be less prone to kicking too.

 

Never used one of those triobrake huskies but had hold of one and didn't like it.

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Husky are still using the full rev apply chain brake test where as stihl do not reccomend this anymore and opt for chain brake apllied rev fully for 2-3 seconds. The drop inertia is always good to see demo-ed but wouldnt recommend it particularly often. As for the tests i think you have to pick which is best for you. For myself id rather do the full rev test as that is similar to replicating the real thing or as close to.

 

Key thing is that you take the time to do check it regularly.

 

Cheers,

 

Andrew

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  • 2 weeks later...

The only problem with putting on the chainbrake and looking for slippage of the chain brake is that the saw has a lot less power at low revs so may pass this test and then fail at higher revs when the saw is making full power.

 

I wouldnt do a wide open throttle test every day but do this test on everything that comes my way as part of a rebuild or service - it is a safety device so I give it a damn good jolt and look for an instant stop and a good snap action of the mechanism.

 

I guess it is a bit like testing a cars brakes at 5mph compared to slamming them on at 50mph!

 

The slow speed test may be more suitable to do on a daily/weekly basis.

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I agree Steve. The chain brake is designed to work from WOT, thats what its for. It will stand up to it although it does feel a bid extreme and hard on the machine.

 

The reving with brake on test will test the brake OK, but should not be done for any more than 1 or 2 seconds. The heat build up in the clutch is immense and if done for too long, or too frequently can lead to premature clutch/bearing/seal failure. The clutch springs may lose their tension early resulting in chain drag.

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I agree Steve. The chain brake is designed to work from WOT, thats what its for. It will stand up to it although it does feel a bid extreme and hard on the machine.

 

The reving with brake on test will test the brake OK, but should not be done for any more than 1 or 2 seconds. The heat build up in the clutch is immense and if done for too long, or too frequently can lead to premature clutch/bearing/seal failure. The clutch springs may lose their tension early resulting in chain drag.

 

Once had a Ryobi saw that had most of its internal side covers melted because the owner left the brake on and couldn't understand why the chain wasnt spinning - wonder if he drives round with the handbrake on!

 

Good advice though!

 

It is also worth cleaning the brake mechanism out once a year - seen some real corkers - amazing the brakes still work! They tend to feel a bit dull on actuation though instead of snapping on crisply when gunked up!

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Once had a Ryobi saw that had most of its internal side covers melted because the owner left the brake on and couldn't understand why the chain wasnt spinning - wonder if he drives round with the handbrake on!

 

 

I have had several Ryobi saws in with a chain brake problem where the the handle has to be held slightly back all the time to keep the brake off.

 

One customer had been doing this from new for about a year and was grumbling about how difficult is was to use.

 

The brake housings on these saws eventually melted just like the one you had in.

 

Rubbish saws IMO

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