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Japa saw blade nut hell


baz
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Hi Baz

 

Can you not get it to a garage who will have an impact driver. Failing that they can heat the nut with a blow torch which should crack it. Seen it done many times in the garage next door. Good luck.

 

Mike

 

My mate who helped me finally get one of the 2 nuts off said its likely going to take a air socket and his gas torch to get it off. Trouble is the processor and his kit are 5 miles apart.

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That suggest that the nuts have not been off for a while, is it a TCT blade?, if so how was it sharpened unless it stood idle for some time.A

 

This is the first attempt to sharpen the blade. Its a hardly used 2 year old processor only done 200m3. Sat indoors all its life.

 

 

Anyway, tried again this morning. The retaining nut is moving but seems to be tightening. After about 1 rotation its still as tight as a nut. So we reckon its been tightened so tight at the manufacturing stage its self tapped.

 

Fuelwood, the suppliers are crap so I won't be troubling them again except for parts if I can't get them elsewhere. All they could offer up is hacksaw it off. With the nut next to the blade that has to be impossible. They have generously offered to sell me replacement nuts and a shaft though. All the Fuelwood plank could offer up is that he's never ever heard of this problem. I did tell him to never say that again which he didn't appear to fully appreciate.

 

Looking like its going to be a weekend angle grinding the nut off and seeing what the shaft damage is.

Edited by baz
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This is the first attempt to sharpen the blade. Its a hardly used 2 year old processor only done 200m3. Sat indoors all its life.

 

 

Anyway, tried again this morning. The retaining nut is moving but seems to be tightening. After about 1 rotation its still as tight as a nut. So we reckon its been tightened so tight at the manufacturing stage its self tapped.

 

Fuelwood, the suppliers are crap so I won't be troubling them again except for parts if I can't get them elsewhere. All they could offer up is hacksaw it off. With the nut next to the blade that has to be impossible. They have generously offered to sell me replacement nuts and a shaft though. All the Fuelwood plank could offer up is that he's never ever heard of this problem. I did tell him to never say that again which he didn't appear to fully appreciate.

 

Looking like its going to be a weekend angle grinding the nut off and seeing what the shaft damage is.

 

 

 

I have had quite the opposite from Fuelwood, very helpfull. I would suggest an extension tube on your wrench having let everything soak overnight in plus gas of WD40. If it moves then you must be getting somewhere. Plus Gas is better. You certainly wont hacksaw it off I would agree. If you do need to use heat on the nuts to loosen them then I would also change the drive belts at the blade end as the heat will transmit to them down the shaft. These are B35 s, your local bearing company should do them assuming yours is the same as mine, a TRE model, PTO and elec motor drive.

 

A

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I find a 6ft or bigger scaffold bar on a 1/2 inch bar/socket usually shifts most stubborn nuts.

 

You mention you were only using a 3ft bar? my advice is too man up and get some serious mechanical advantage on it! ;-)

 

And all you hear is the 1/2inch bar knuckle snap. Use 3/4 drive :thumbup:

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I find a 6ft or bigger scaffold bar on a 1/2 inch bar/socket usually shifts most stubborn nuts.

 

You mention you were only using a 3ft bar? my advice is too man up and get some serious mechanical advantage on it! ;-)

 

Agreed, adjustable spanner or STILSON wrench, my bar was 6 foot.

 

A

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