Help needed with 242xp

[billpierce]

All back together now. Fitted new carb kit. Got it running. Not very sweetly though. Behaving a bit like a fake 660 a pal of mine gave me to fix recently. It ran but like a dog, revs took along time to come down from full, picked up nicely though. Idle was nearly impossible to get below 3500.

The carb was set to 2 turns out on both h and l when I got it and doesn't run well at 1 turn out.

Yet to vac test it but I suspect the cylinder may be shot as it's only getting to 125psi but unsure what it should be with a new piston.

Will have to vac test it next

[carlos]

cool project, doesnt look like its seen much work? or else you cleaned it up well! hope you get it going well. i have an old 254 which is a bit tempermentle, still cuts well though considering its age.

[Matthew Storrs]

Like to see the old saws still working- or trying to. Like Carlos I have a 254xp- my first saw. Just can’t seem to it to idle without cutting out.

[spudulike]

125psi is damn low, not sure about this machine but would have been happier with 150-170psi. The carb settings should be 1+1 and the symptoms sound like an air leak to me especially with it not snapping down to idle properly and revving high even though the idle screw is fully out. The air has to be coming from somewhere. Have you checked the inlet manifold (plastic part) isn't cracked and all the correct gaskets are in place?

[billpierce]

Agree was pretty disappointed with 125psi.....although do find that gauge a bit inaccurate. Also wasn't sure if it may change as the piston ring beds in. The cylinder required a reasonable amount of sanding with wet and dry paper to remove the transfer, so potentially I will need a new cylinder if things don't improve.

Pretty sure the carb boot is good etc and all gaskets are new. I shall check and vac/pressure check soon

Read that these are max rpm 15500 which seems quite a lot!

254xps are ace. Keep them going!

[billpierce]

So unsurprisingly you were correct spud, gasket between carb boot and cylinder ( slightly awkward location) had slid down on one side, creating an at leak. Took it off and it broke, so made a one from cardboard ( probs a temporary fix?) Saw now running sweet as a nut,

Just did 20mins firewooding with it and all good. Then heard the flywheel key shearing! Doh!

Anyway managed to line it up good and all together and working a treat again now.

So will need

Flywheel key
Chain catcher
Carb boot gasket

Can't stress how nice and easy this saw is to work on, loads of space and not fiddley at all. Unlike recent 550 I just sorted!

[billpierce]

Stuck an old 13'' bar and chain had knocking around on. It's good but think years ago when I took it to my local moron husky dealer he stuck a 3/8 .050 chain on and expect it really wants a 3/8p 050 chain? I have Googled away and cannot find much from the Id Info on the bar, can anyone help?

Cuts well but feels like the 3/8 is a bit too grabby

[spudulike]

Glad to be of assistance again, just used past experience and logical diagnosis to hit the old nail on the head

[billpierce]

Glad to be of assistance again, just used past experience and logical diagnosis to hit the old nail on the head[emoji106]

Well it's really appreciated....have learnt a lot about fettling saws from you and others on arbtalk for which I am very grateful

[billpierce]

Stuck an old 13'' bar and chain had knocking around on. It's good but think years ago when I took it to my local moron husky dealer he stuck a 3/8 .050 chain on and expect it really wants a 3/8p 050 chain? I have Googled away and cannot find much from the Id Info on the bar, can anyone help?

Cuts well but feels like the 3/8 is a bit too grabby

So just in case anyone else is reading this thread. Found some help on Oregon bar id on chainsawbars.co.uk in the pic I showed it's the first few numbers which are interesting 138. First 2 numbers are length 13inch. Second is gauge so

8 is .058
3 is .063
0 is .050


The above bar is 50 links meybs the 50 on the bar means that ( I had assumed it meant .050 gauge)