size bar for MS880?

[MikeTM150]

Hi

 

Thinking of buying an alaskan for turning some big logs into something usable instead of just logging it up into wood burner.

 

Currently run a 30" rollermatic bar and a 48" duromatic bar, but really want a bigger bar than 30" but the 48" is going to get to hot i'm guessing doing longer cuts milling timber......i could have swore it was a 48" rollermatic bar but it ain't

 

So what do you lots suggest i use?

[chazzer]

Get a 090 and fit it with a 50" canon bar and put a 18" on the 880 for cutting firewood

 

Charlie

[Big J]

I have a spare 42 inch bar and chains that I no longer need as I've bought a 50 inch bar. I need to have a look at it but think it's a Cannon superbar. Not excessively used, and plenty of chains.

 

PM me if you are interested.

 

Jonathan

[agg221]

I use a 47" Duromatic for milling (yours may well actually be 47", the modern ones are). Mine is on an 076 and I don't have any problems with it getting hot, even when I don't use the manual oiler. You have to keep the chain tension absolutely right, but it behaves itself and I've gone up to 16ft cuts so far. I reckon it's on the limit for a mill without a secondary oiler though. You could add the aux. oiler kit to your current Duromatic, which just requires a hole. Since there's no sprocket it doesn't make any difference to any other use you may have for it.

 

Alec

[MikeTM150]

I use a 47" Duromatic for milling (yours may well actually be 47", the modern ones are). Mine is on an 076 and I don't have any problems with it getting hot, even when I don't use the manual oiler. You have to keep the chain tension absolutely right, but it behaves itself and I've gone up to 16ft cuts so far. I reckon it's on the limit for a mill without a secondary oiler though. You could add the aux. oiler kit to your current Duromatic, which just requires a hole. Since there's no sprocket it doesn't make any difference to any other use you may have for it.

 

Alec

 

Well i guess there's one way to find out, and thats to try it. Big J's offer is a good one to get me going in the right direction.

 

If i buy a 56" alaskan, will i be able to use it with these smaller bars?

[Rob D]

Well i guess there's one way to find out, and thats to try it. Big J's offer is a good one to get me going in the right direction.

 

If i buy a 56" alaskan, will i be able to use it with these smaller bars?

 

 

Yep the end clamp is all movable and you could in theory fit a 56" Alaskan to a 20" bar if you wanted!

 

Big J's offer could be a good move as the 42" Cannon bars for 880 are big money now....

 

I've used a duramatic for milling before - it does work but a sprocket nose bar is much preferable.... dunno why Stihl do not do a 48" Rollamatic ES bar when they make the 59" Rollamatic

[MikeTM150]

Yep the end clamp is all movable and you could in theory fit a 56" Alaskan to a 20" bar if you wanted!

 

Big J's offer could be a good move as the 42" Cannon bars for 880 are big money now....

 

I've used a duramatic for milling before - it does work but a sprocket nose bar is much preferable.... dunno why Stihl do not do a 48" Rollamatic ES bar when they make the 59" Rollamatic

 

Yeah Big J's offer is very good with what he's just come with wanting for it!!! I think in an earlier post a said it was a rollermatic when u said it wasn't cuz i was so sure it was........ooppps. Does seem daft they do bigger rollermatics but there must be a reason somewhere!!

 

Best i get and order an alaskan now, not cheap, have considered making my own but i've got a feeling there been a lot of developement in getting the alaskan to work well so it should be money well spent!! Was going to build me own badsaw but cutting wide enough boards is the problem, then i watch ur video using it in conjunction with a peterson and that looked best of both worlds!!!

[Rob D]

No they're not cheap and you could prob build your own - all depends on how much your time's worth really...

 

If you have a project in mind for the timber or someone who wants something made then that way at least it pays for itself quickly.....

 

I'm going to be focusing this year on rough, quick outdoor benches etc rather than the all nicely finished stuff I have done in the past.... If you build solid and cheap they will sell.

[MikeTM150]

right, just in process of ordering an alaskan, and was wondering if i really need a mini mill to square the edge of timbers of or can manage wwithout it?

[Rob D]

Depends how big your timber is..... if it'll fit within the alaskan then don't worry, if some are a lot larger then mini mill is great for dropping one or both of the sides off.