Noob Needs A Chainsaw.

[spudulike]

Martin, I was in a similar position to you about 4 years ago. I wound up buying a Husqvarna 345e with a 15" bar (the 'e' range is, or was, their 'semi-professional range'), by sheer chance it's turned out to be exactly right for what I use it for. I cut up about an artic load of wood a year - anything up to 20" diameter without ever feeling the saw is underpowered, and I've never had any problems with the saw. I have the 15" 1.3mm bar with full chisel chain and it belts through the wood provided it is sharp. I really doubt you would get any significant benefit from a larger saw than mine - it would be heavier and use more fuel, I think these disadvantages would outweigh any advantages. Unless you're dealing with massive timber I'd suggest sticking with a 15" bar to get the best cutting speed.

 

The thing that will make the most difference to how fast and enjoyable your 'cutting experience' is will be learning to sharpen the chain well. I struggled with this for a long time, eventually I found someone who actually knew how to do it and after a 5 minute lesson I was off. I still don't make a perfect job of it every time, especially if I haven't been using the saw for a few months. The key is to stop and sharpen whenever you start to find cutting feels like hard work. Don't think 'I'll just finish these lengths then stop' - just stop and sharpen.

 

Funny that, this is the saw I spoke about right at the beginning of this thread:thumbup: I was selling my own muffler modded one, great little saw but has since been sold elswhere.

 

These saws have great AV, good power to weight ratio and you can use them all day with no fatigue - great with a 15" bar. Not as peaky as the 346 but still belts through the wood - totally agree with Harvey

[MartinF]

I do need to learn how to sharpen a chain, thats for sure.

Any advice?

 

Any opinions on the Husky proective kit I linked anyone?

[chazzer]

I do need to learn how to sharpen a chain, thats for sure.

Any advice?

 

Any opinions on the Husky proective kit I linked anyone?

 

I'm sure i could take a few pictures while i go out to the shed... right about now

 

Charlie

[MartinF]

I'm sure you guys thinks it's bonkers for a noob to buy a 550XP but the way I see it, it should last me for decades.

 

With it being a pro saw, it should be better built and sturdy so It's very unlikely I'm ever going to take it out of it's comfort zone.

 

It's going to be capable of doing practically any cutting job I come across.

 

With it have all the electronic trickery it should be economical for it's size and I won't be spending goodness knows how much more time using it as I would with a less powerful saw.

 

This is a purchase I only want to do once and as someone mentioned, if I got a small saw I may in the future want to upgrade which could in the long run be more expensive.

 

If there's any flaws in my logic, please tell me.

 

You never know, it may draw me into a new career too.

Edited March 23, 2012 by MartinF
spelling as usual

[windfall]

Go for it!

[chazzer]

Right,

 

I'm going to go back to basics

 

(sorry if it sounds patronizing)

 

First of all i would suggest getting a kit like this

 

 

which contains

 

 

here is the demo saw a 62cc Komatsu with 22" bar

 

 

 

Here is the chain

 

 

This was a image i got from the internet as the macro wouldn't work on the camera but you can see on the "Tooth" that there is a semi circular mark this indicates when the chain is worn out and should not be used anymore. It also indicates the height at which you you should sharpen the teeth (I believe that you can rest the guide thing around the file on top of the teeth which will keep them the same height? although i cannot say as i don't use it!), this is on every tooth on the top of the Tooth there is also another mark which is straight across which also indicates when the chains life has come to an end but it also show the angle at which the file should be pushed through the tooth. You will see this when you get your 550Xp

[chazzer]

Now filing the chain the teeth face two directions with the "point" on the left and the new tooth the point will be on the right you should always file away from the chain like this

 

This it for a tooth that the point is on the left

 

 

And the right (you can just make out the mark i was talking about on top of the tooth earlier)

 

 

You should try to keep all the strokes the same length and the same amount of strokes on each tooth although it will still cut it will be uneven and the saw will shake allot and can also increase the risk of kickback if they are too short

 

Another thing to keep the same lengths are the rackers these are the sticky up bits in front of the teeth. but yes there is a tool for that which is this thing (which is on the far right of the picture showing what you get)

 

 

This picture is a bit rubbish but

 

Now you hold that on top of the teeth and put the racker between the slot and then use your flat file to file down to the tool

 

Now i probably forgot some bits bit i'm sure people will correct me and fill stuff in!

 

Charlie

[MartinF]

Charlie, that's brilliant mate!

Thankyou so much for going to all that trouble.

 

I didn't realise there would be some much helpful info in the chain itself and I never would have guessed you could wear a blade as far back as you can, but I suppose if you hit a nail it could take a big chunk out.

 

I read somewhere that the files get worn quite quickly. Do you guys tend to get through a lot of them?

[chazzer]

Now filing the chain the teeth face two directions with the "point" on the left and the new tooth the point will be on the right you should always file away from the chain like this

 

Charlie

 

That should say next not new...

[Stubby]

Agree with all of that , not sure he needs the lathe though !